Updated: 04/23/2021 15:18:24
Expert: Ekaterina Alekseevna Savitskaya
Jewelry store windows tirelessly delight customers with luxurious jewelry made from all kinds of precious metals. Gold is among the favorites. This popularity can be explained very simply: metal has a stylish appearance, is durable, and practical. But when it comes to choosing the right jewelry, things get a little more complicated: is it better to choose red or yellow gold and how do they differ? Our experts will tell you.
Why does gold have different colors?
The color of pure gold is yellow, and its name in Latin, aurum, means exactly that. You can see the “real” color by looking at a bank gold bar - a brick with a purity of 999.9. It will not be possible to make jewelry from it, because it will bend and wrinkle. Pure gold is soft, much like tin, and setting precious stones in it would be risky. In order to decorate our ears, necks and fingers, jewelry gold is used - an alloy of precious metal with a ligature, that is, metals that strengthen the noble, but so vulnerable gold.
Depending on the composition of the additive-ligature, gold alloys of different colors are obtained, the most popular and in demand of which are the following types of jewelry gold:
- red – 58.5% Au, 31.1% Cu and 10.4% Ag;
- pink – 75% Au, 9% Ag and 16% Cu;
- white – options are possible, for example, 58.5% Au, 12.5% Ag and 27% Pd;
- yellow – a combination of Au (the percentage depends on the sample), Cu and Ag (the final shade depends on their ratio - closer to lemon or warm yellow).
Redness comes from copper, whiteness from silver, palladium, and platinum. The saturation of the tone also depends on the percentage of the base element – gold. The true color of white gold is yellowish. Rhodium plating, a thin layer of another noble metal, rhodium, gives it a cold platinum pallor.
Table
Yellow gold | Red gold | |
What is | Metal, element of the periodic table with the chemical symbol Au | Alloy of yellow gold with copper or copper and silver |
Usage |
| Exclusively for jewelry making |
Comparison of rose and yellow gold
When we talk about pink and yellow alloys, we mean 750 fineness (18 carats) of precious metal. Which gold is better - pink or yellow? These two metals constantly compete with each other in the collections of leading jewelry houses. As a rule, models are produced in both versions, although pink jewelry is more aimed at a female audience. Both alloys have the same wear characteristics, so the choice depends entirely on your preferences.
Red gold ring with diamonds 911363B
Designer ring made of lemon gold 931638B
Stylists' opinion
The pink tint is perceived as slightly cooler. It is exotic for the Russian market, and therefore jewelry made from it looks unusual and fresh. If you want to surprise the most sophisticated connoisseurs, choose a pink shade. The yellow 750 alloy is closest to the color of pure precious metal, and therefore jewelry made from it is unmistakably identified as jewelry. If unconditional prestige is important to you, the yellow alloy is the most advantageous in this regard. In the “pink/yellow” pair, the metal with a pink tint looks more feminine, and the yellow one looks more masculine.
Astrologers' opinion
Yellow gold has an active masculine energy, as close as possible to the energy of pure metal. The Latin name aurum correlates with the word aurora, that is, dawn, sunrise, and this is one of the reasons why it is called the solar metal. Choosing a yellow alloy accentuates your qualities such as the will to win and the desire for success, including material ones. This is a symbol of wealth, so if a good financial situation is of paramount importance to you, choose jewelry made of 18-karat yellow gold.
Pink alloy is suitable for people for whom the main thing in life is love in all its manifestations - for a partner, family, friends, and oneself. In general, pink alloy is much more suitable for girls and women, although it cannot be called purely feminine. This metal will help you find harmony in relationships and attitude.
Where is the most expensive sample found - pure gold?
The most expensive gold standard is 999.
In rare cases, only pure metal inserts are used in jewelry, which jewelers have to frame with other, more durable ones, so as not to be subject to deformation.
Gold of the highest standard is used for jewelry in Arab countries and the Far East. Also, the purest products are produced in Japan, but in exclusive samples. The owners of such masterpieces sometimes put on the “treasures” only once in their entire lives, during the most solemn ceremonies, after which they are passed on by inheritance or melted down.
Using gold of the highest standard and purity
Author's jewelry masterpieces made of gold of the most expensive standard are unique things. In addition, due to a number of metal features, they are not intended for everyday wear:
- evidence of contact with hard objects in the form of scratches may quickly appear, which reduces the aesthetic appeal of the jewelry;
- As a rule, the products weigh a lot, creating additional inconvenience.
Pure aurum is most often used to make ingots that are stored in the state’s gold reserves. Another application option is the production of the thinnest sheets of so-called gold leaf using a special technology.
In medicine, there are treatment methods with drugs that contain a certain amount of this precious metal. And the rich have their own quirks: in some restaurants, very wealthy visitors are offered dishes and even drinks with gold additives.
Comparison of white and red gold
From a practical point of view, to the question “Which gold is better – red or white?”, many answer unequivocally: of course, red! After all, products made from a white alloy are usually coated with rhodium, and its layer needs to be renewed over time. This will be especially noticeable on jewelry that you often use, such as rings or chains. Many buyers perceive the presence of rhodium plating as a minus, missing out on the advantages of this coating, which:
- gives jewelry a beautiful steel shine;
- strengthens gold, which is soft by nature (rhodium-plated jewelry is less damaged and scratched);
- particles of precious metal do not wear off - the ring or chain does not lose weight. For jewelry that is worn occasionally, this does not matter, but for an engagement ring that you plan to wear without taking it off for the rest of your life, this may be important.
You can restore the rhodium layer in a matter of minutes by entrusting the jewelry to the care of a jeweler. But if you don't feel like doing this, choose a red alloy. True, it is sometimes worth giving it for polishing and cleaning so that it remains as beautiful as the day it was purchased.
If we compare alloys by their combination with stones, then white gold wins in alliance with diamonds - it was created to highlight and enhance their shine. In addition, a white background is ideal for stones of cool shades - for example, amethyst, topaz. Well, emeralds and rubies look more impressive with red metal. Sapphire and pearls are beautiful in their own way when set in both shades.
White gold ring with diamonds 921350B
Red gold earrings with diamonds 912214B
Opinion of stylists and designers
Red gold is the most neutral in style, suits people of any color type and is most often used in classic models of precious jewelry. Outside Russia, it is not widespread and is perceived as exotic; in the world it is often called “Russian gold.” If you are used to being Western-oriented, gold jewelry with a red tint is not for you. If you are proud of the traditions of the Russian and Soviet jewelry school, then you can always choose something special, for example, a ring with a sapphire track, the shine of which is enhanced by diamonds.
White gold with rhodium plated is more often used to create modern jewelry models, incl. in high-tech style. In addition, it replaces noble and expensive platinum in exclusive jewelry with diamonds: appreciate it in this role in a beautiful union with sapphires and diamonds in a women's ring with stones in a circle. If we consider the same model of jewelry in red and white gold, the latter will look more restrained and more sophisticated. True, this rule only works if we are talking about jewelry with an expressive design. Serial models in white gold look simpler and can easily be confused with silver or even steel.
Astrologers' opinion
Both red and white gold are reliable amulets for their owner: in the white alloy, the silver included in the ligature is responsible for this function, and in the red alloy, copper is responsible. Both metals protect against the evil eye and other bad influences. At the same time, gold jewelry with a red tint gives the owner vibrant vital energy, and white metal enhances intellectual and creative abilities.
Red and white alloys are the most popular in Russia when choosing wedding rings. Which gold is better in this case? Experts in the energy of metals assure that wearing wedding rings made of red gold will make the relationship between husband and wife more trusting, and white models will help each spouse maintain their “self”, not lose their individuality and their own interests, dissolving in worries about the family.
Stones suitable for metal
Red metal is best inlaid:
- stones with a pink tint: ruby, garnet, spinel, topaz;
- inserts with yellow, orange, brown tint: amber, sapphire, topaz;
- pink, golden, white pearls.
Yellow metal looks best with:
- stones with a greenish tint: emerald, chrysolite;
- transparent stones: zircon, cubic zirconia, sapphire.
- White stones: opal, moonstone.
Ring with stone
Comparison of white and yellow gold
Which gold is better – yellow or white? Both of these alloys can be produced in 585 or 750 samples. If you compare alloys without rhodium plating, they will be quite similar: the white metal looks like pale yellow gold. Without rhodium plating, the metals are similar in perception, the same stones “suit” them, but if you compare yellow and rhodium-plated white gold, you can clearly feel their difference: rhodium gives the metal a “steel” character - making it colder and more severe.
It should be noted that yellow gold is common abroad, but in Russia it is not so common. Due to this rarity, it may cost slightly more than the other two options. The collections of Russian jewelry factories include a limited number of models in this color; choosing from them exactly what you need can be quite difficult.
White gold ring with diamonds 921403B
Designer ring in yellow gold D3583
Stylists' opinion
Yellow gold is a traditional shade for European jewelry. Any precious stones look good in it - the shade is not so warm as to conflict with cold topaz, aquamarines, tanzanites or amethysts, it goes well with warm-colored stones - padparadscha sapphire, ruby. This color is perceived as premium and is often used to create high-end jewelry - like these diamond earrings on a gold plate. This is a good choice for people who want to emphasize their status.
White gold is not so pretentious. It is more suitable for business style clothing. Its owner is perceived as a calm, strong person with modern views. People who prefer to be the first to embrace new trends should take into account that jewelry made of white gold without rhodium plating is gaining popularity in Europe. This metal looks original, and it also saves the owner from the troubles associated with the loss of the rhodium layer.
Astrologers' opinion
What kind of gold is better to buy if you want the jewelry to be not only an adornment, but also a personal talisman? A person who relies only on his own strength is better off choosing yellow metal. It will give you strength and help you implement your plans. Well, those who trust their intuition and hope to receive the support of others and the universe itself should prefer the white color of gold jewelry.
Customer Reviews
Zhanna: I like to buy jewelry on vacation abroad, they often sell yellow gold there. I like it better, since I associate such jewelry with pleasant moments.
Lyubov: I’ve never thought so seriously about what kind of gold to buy, it all depends on how much I like the product itself. It seems to me that this is what is important to all girls.
Veronica: I’m used to the fact that jewelry has a reddish tint; I like such products more and first of all attract my attention.
Myth or truth on the topic: “Which gold is better”
Jewelry is a part of our life. Probably every woman has them. However, there are always a lot of myths around them. Check yourself, are you not in the grip of delusions? Answer whether the given statements are true, and then check the correctness of your answer.
White gold is much more expensive because palladium and platinum are added to it
Indeed, the alloy usually includes these metals, but most often their percentage is not so high as to significantly affect the cost of the jewelry for the end consumer. The price of white gold is indeed usually a little higher, but due to additional manipulation - the application of rhodium.
You may be allergic to white gold
Partially true. Sometimes, to create a white tint, nickel is added to the ligature, which can cause a local reaction. Knowing this, manufacturers who value their reputation choose a hypoallergenic ligature. So an allergy is possible only if you purchased a gold product in a random place or country where there is no strict control over the circulation of precious metals.
Red gold is the cheapest
And all because it contains a lot of copper, and yellow is the most expensive, it contains more pure precious metal. Is it true? In fact, the content of the precious metal is determined by the breakdown. Red, white, yellow gold of 585 assay value contain the same percentage of solar metal – 58.5%.
The price per gram of gold is different only because of the difference in color
Gold jewelry has different prices per gram for several reasons. The main one is the sample. The price is also influenced by the complexity of the design, technology features, the presence and quality of inserts, as well as what category the product belongs to: serial, limited edition, designer. And only lastly does its color affect the price of gold jewelry. The difference between the cost of white and red gold is only a few percent.
585-karat jewelry is stronger than those made from 750-karat precious metal
Despite the higher cost of 750 standard (due to the higher content of pure elements), jewelry made from it is more vulnerable to mechanical damage. 585 standard contains more alloying additives, which makes the alloy more durable. That is why in Russia 585-grade metal is used for wedding rings. It is customary to wear the ring without removing it, and on the right hand (in contrast to the European tradition of wearing it on the left side). So you need a truly reliable piece of jewelry. Well, 750 standard is used for exclusives created to delight us on special occasions.
Ring in red and white gold with bows and diamonds
Designer ring and earrings in yellow gold D3583 D3584
How to distinguish real gold from fake
The quality of jewelry made in Russia is controlled by the Federal Assay Office (FAP). This department issues licenses to enterprises with activities related to the trade, purchase, and processing of waste precious metals and scrap.
When buying products from domestic jewelry factories made of white, red and yellow gold, you don’t have to worry about counterfeiting. In Russia, for each precious metal, the current GOST establishes the composition and proportion of the alloy, and low-quality metal is sent for processing. Gold earrings, rings, and bracelets that go on sale bear a name and hallmark :
- stamp - a number indicating the purity of the metal, the profile of a woman in a kokoshnik, the letter designation of the regulatory authority;
- name - letter code of the manufacturer, jewelry workshop.
The symbols of the nameplate are enclosed in a single outline, its shape is determined by the state inspection of assay supervision
Questionable jewelry made of red, white or yellow gold purchased in Turkey, China, Israel is checked in different ways:
- Black bread. They cover it with crumb, leave it for a couple of days, the fake oxidizes , but the real gold-containing alloy does not change color.
- Lapis pencil (a pharmaceutical product for treating small wounds containing silver nitrate). First, the chain, ring or bracelet is moistened with water, and then lapis is passed over the wet surface; if a line appears on the product, it means it is not gold.
- A magnet is used to detect products made of thulium, erbium, holmium, dysprosium, terbium, and gadolinium. Counterfeits stick to it because they are highly magnetic.
- Vinegar. An item made from an alloy that imitates a precious metal darkens after five minutes.
Which of the three gold colors can be combined?
More recently, stylists were extremely categorical: wearing metals of different colors was bad manners. But the world is changing, changing jewelry etiquette: today it is not only possible, but also necessary to combine metals of different colors. The only condition is to combine in one image only their noble representatives (gold of all shades, platinum and silver), without diluting it with costume jewelry, even the most expensive. It will be noticeable!
How you can combine gold of different colors:
- several chains of different lengths made of metals of different shades;
- several multi-colored rings;
- earrings of different colors (if there are several of them in your ear);
- combination of several types of gold in one piece of jewelry.
The last option can be an excellent adapter. For example, if your finger is decorated with a multi-textured multi-colored ring, you can complement it with both white and red gold jewelry. The main thing is that they are in the same style. It is wrong to combine jewelry of different colors in different zones, that is, for example, red alloy earrings with a white metal bracelet - there must be a transition. To make this set match, you can add a red one to the white bracelet.
Recommendations for care, cleaning and storage
To store gold, you must choose a dry, dark place. You should not put all items together; it is better to use individual cases or covers for this.
The noble metal itself is slightly susceptible to oxidation. To restore its presentable appearance, it is necessary to clean the product from contamination. It is not recommended to use mechanical cleaning methods.
It will be enough to treat it with special products, which are offered in an assortment by jewelry and hardware stores. For care, you can use available products: soak the jewelry for several hours in aqueous solutions of ammonia or detergent, rinse under running water and polish with a lint-free cloth.
Here's another way:
From time to time it is advisable to seek the help of professionals. The jeweler will not only return things to their original shine, but will also check for defects.
So which gold is better to buy?!
White, red, yellow and even pink... If you still haven’t decided on the answer to the question “which gold is better,” let’s summarize what we learned from the article.
- The amount of precious metal in a piece of jewelry depends not on the color, but on the sample, so the question “what color gold is better” can only be decided from the point of view of the buyer’s taste preferences, but not the quality of the material.
- The price of alloys of different colors differs slightly - red gold is the most affordable, white rhodium-plated gold is a little more expensive, yellow is the most expensive of the three due to the least widespread.
- The ligature can be of different quality. Often, it is precisely because of poor-quality ligature that debates arise on the topic “Which gold is better.”
Summary: it is impossible to answer the question of which gold is considered the best in quality based only on a description of its color, since this is only a matter of taste. To buy jewelry of guaranteed quality, choose products from Russian factories: in our country, close attention is paid to the control of the circulation of precious metals; the risk of buying gold jewelry of a low standard or with a low-grade ligature appears only if you purchase jewelry secondhand or in unverified stores, trust private masters without a decent reputation.
All shades of gold are near you! The St. Petersburg jewelry factory "Diva" guarantees the quality of its products: compliance with the sample, hypoallergenicity, reliability of setting of precious stones. In addition, we promise that in our salons you will receive aesthetic pleasure from fabulously luxurious jewelry collections. Each “Diva” jewelry is a happy story that is ready to happen in your life!
Where can you buy or sell
People who sell jewelry secondhand often find counterfeit goods, and purchase prices are significantly reduced. If you want to save money, you can find good options at a pawn shop. But it's best to go to the store.
In addition, in pawn shops you can sell your boring jewelry at a profit. The final purchase price will be influenced by the condition (scrap or jewelry), the presence of precious or semi-precious stones, and fineness.
To read: Features of gold mining from radio components at home
How much is 1 gram of red gold worth today?
Rates are updated according to global fluctuations in the cost of a gram of gold. Prices are calculated based on the precious metal content of the alloy. The graph below shows the cost of the most popular 585 standard:
Price 999 standard according to the Central Bank | Market value of the sample today | Scrap price | Price in jewelry |
Leader in sales level
This honorable position belongs to products made from 750-karat alloys. Gold jewelry can be made using various technological techniques, such as milling and even pressure . Thanks to the rather high aurum content - 75% - the possibilities for creating unique works, characterized by a high degree of complexity and modern design, increase.
In many countries, for example in Europe and America, jewelry is made from gold-containing alloys of various compositions and colors. But for all these products there is a single requirement: aurum of at least 18 carats. So, in Italy, 750 standard is considered worthy of attention, and no lower. And in Switzerland, the law prohibits the sale of products whose purity is less than 18 carats.
Which gold standard is better, 375 or 585
In terms of its composition, 375 sample is an alloy of the lowest quality. It has a number of significant disadvantages. Due to the large number of impurities, it fades quite quickly, losing its original shine and beauty. In the USSR, there was a color standard for 375 standard - dark pink, jewelry could be easily distinguished by this feature.
The modern jewelry industry produces products 375, which are visually no different from the more expensive ones - with the mark 585. By adding special elements, it was possible to significantly increase the resistance of such gold to oxidation. Now it retains its beauty and shine much longer.
An interesting point is the price of 375 standard. The difference in pure gold content is almost 70%, it would be logical to assume that the difference in cost per gram would be the same. In fact, a very large part of the price is the cost of work, production costs, and trade markup. So it turns out that the price of products 375 and 585 for buyers does not differ as radically as one would expect.
These nuances appear when you have a desire to change jewelry from 375 to 585, the amount of additional payment may unpleasantly surprise you. When you take it to a pawnshop, you also don’t have to expect to receive a lot of money.
Based on the above, it becomes clear why the 375 brand is not particularly popular; it is considered a budget segment of the market.
Also, the 500 standard has not found distribution; it is very rare to find products with such a stamp.
585 is truly the “golden” ratio for the jewelry industry. It has a long tradition of use for the manufacture of a wide variety of rings, chains, earrings, pendants of any complexity. It practically does not darken under the influence of the environment, and retains its shine and beauty for a long time. It can be confidently called the best in terms of price-quality ratio. Back in the days of Tsarist Russia, there was a sample of 56 spools (58.3% purity).
Which is better for wedding rings
In Russia, wedding rings are made from 375, 585 and 750 varieties. In rare cases, this jewelry has a 958 hallmark - such jewelry is made to order, but is not practical, so it is not popular.
375 rings are the cheapest. They have sufficient strength and are less prone to bending and scratching. To maintain shine and color, jewelry requires regular treatment.
Rings of 585 and 750 varieties are popular in Russia. They have sufficient strength and do not darken for a long time. The shade of the product can be not only yellow, but also another, characteristic of gold alloys.