BISMARCK CHAINS: DESCRIPTION, TECHNIQUES AND TYPES OF WEAVING

• Main differences Methods for making chains/span>
• Which chain to choose - solid or hollow?

Any piece of jewelry is a manifestation of the imagination of designers and goldsmiths. To create a new, unique piece of jewelry using the experience of previous generations and one’s own creative luck is a real challenge for a jeweler. This is especially true when making various kinds of chains - a popular accessory not only for ladies, but also for representatives of the stronger half of humanity, as well as children of different ages.

You can wear the chain by complementing it with classic and fancy pendants. But this product can also be worn independently. Let's figure out what types of chain weaving there are.

Main differences

Before you decide how chains differ from each other and which knitting option is preferable for you, let's make a few preliminary notes about making metal jewelry.

Methods for making chains

First of all, let's pay attention to the fact that each chain can be made using machines (this happens most often) or by hand. If we are talking about machine weaving, then with this option the blanks are placed in special machines, where future links (no more than 0.2 mm thick) and their connections are formed.

But there are types of chains that cannot be completed without involving the talented hands of a specialist. In some regions, such professionals are called not jewelers, but chain makers - in the old fashioned way. In this case, almost everything except the quality of the precious metal depends on the professionalism of the jeweler.

The work of a chain maker is truly difficult and responsible. Imagine:

1. first he draws out the gold wire and winds it around the base;
2. a spiral is formed, which the jeweler, using special tools, cuts into small rings - links;
3. these elements are also connected to each other without the help of a machine, but only thanks to pliers and the hands of a master;
4. the resulting links are soldered for strength and then driven between presses to obtain the flat appearance we are accustomed to.

There is another option for making chains - stamping. In this case, the links themselves are already ready, stamped. The jeweler's job is to thread one die into another and secure them. Such jewelry is cheaper. True, experienced buyers try to purchase them only as a last resort. The method is, of course, simple. But it’s difficult to call such a product durable. Its elements are easily twisted and ultimately deformed. Therefore, it is believed that the first and second technologies are much preferable.

Which chain to choose - solid or hollow?

This is also a very important question that you need to decide before purchasing the product. It’s easy to guess that hollow chains are much lighter than their solid counterpart. At the same time, they may look more voluminous. Such decorations are distinguished by affordable prices and will delight you with the fantasy of weaving. True, hollow jewelry laces have one obvious disadvantage - their strength. Or rather, its absence. Lightweight products tend to deform faster. They are easier to tear. But they are simply not suitable for constant daily wear.

If you are sure that this is a product made of solid gold, remember: it will cost more and will feel heavier on your hand or neck. But the durability of such jewelry is legendary. They are not subject to deformation, you do not risk accidentally breaking them, and if necessary (if one or more links are damaged), the jeweler can easily solder the chain, which will look like new.

Masterpieces from chain knitting machines

Jewelry made using machines is not only lighter in weight. Modern technologies have diversified the pattern of chains and made them more accessible to middle-income people.

Thin, lightweight chains of round wire are created by chain knitting machines. One machine produces at least 600 workpieces per minute. A special low-melting compound is applied to the ends of the links, which promotes their soldering when heated in ovens up to 820 degrees. The quality of the resulting chains directly depends on compliance with the requirements of the technological process.

Types of chain weaving

Over the long centuries of the existence of jewelry, the basic technologies on which chains are woven have been formed. There are only three of them.

1. Bismarck. Very strong knitting. An amazing thing: “bismarck” (also called “cardinal” or “kaiser”) is a very complex, labor-intensive weaving, which, as a rule, is done by hand. And at the same time it can be called the most popular basic type. Almost every man has a Bismarck chain. The decoration looks like a path made up of two to four rows. The links - several rings of different directions - are connected to each other in a fantasy way, forming that same path. By the way, although today at the associative level many would attribute “Bismarck” to “male” weaving, just a few centuries ago thin, long chains with such weaving were worn exclusively by women. But the strength of the knit could not go unnoticed by men who prefer more massive jewelry. That is why “Kaiser” migrated from women’s to men’s fashion. This product is considered the standard of classics and aristocracy, because even two rows of links look moderately massive and at the same time elegant. Perhaps there is no weaving stronger and more reliable.
2. Armored. The most fantastic variety. The links in this case - as flat as possible and smooth from the front and back - are fastened as if one after another, forming a single plane. Imagine what chain mail looks like: the rings fit together very tightly, creating the feeling of a solid material. A similar principle is used in armor knitting. As a result, a flat chain is formed, which is convenient to wear around the neck, since it fits snugly to the body and does not twist or deform.
3. Anchor. The oval links of the decoration, in their appearance and method of fastening, are similar to an anchor chain, when the first, third and remaining odd links are located in the same plane, and the second, fourth and remaining even ones are perpendicular to the first. This is a fairly simple but very strong weave that is often used in men's and women's jewelry fashion. As a rule, anchor chains become the basis for all kinds of pendants, although they also work great as an independent decoration.

By transforming these basic structures, the craftsmen have achieved such a high level of art of chain knitting that today the number of varieties exceeds 55. Types of chain weaving include traditional, as well as complicated and fancy options. Here are the most popular ones for your attention.

Nona

A beautiful decoration has a beautiful name. “Nona” is the name given to a particularly original armor weave. Such a chain consists of oval-shaped elements that are connected by an intermediate coupling. A special feature of knitting can be considered a mix of large and small links located inside them. Diamond chips can be applied to the finished product, turning it not only into a smooth, but also shiny jewel.

By the way, “nona” is not a name. In Italian, nonna means "grandmother." And the name of the weaving comes from the words “grandmother’s knitting.” Very touching, you must agree.

The openwork product looks quite restrained, but at the same time sophisticated and elegant. A delicate chain can be perfectly complemented by a small pendant or cross. However, it will be great as an independent decoration.

Figaro (Cartier)

This is another type of armor weaving, more fancy. Fans of original jewelry will certainly appreciate this chain, consisting of unequal links alternating in a certain order. Let's say, to two or three round links one or two oblong ones are added, and so on. Weaving was invented by the designers of the Cartier fashion house. That is why the second name of the knitting is exactly the same as that of the famous Fashion House. Although, in the end, a frivolous “Figaro” and a spectacular “Cartier” are one and the same thing. A classic of Cartier's armored chains is the combination of three round and one oval link.

This is a very durable weave that is suitable for both men and women. It will look good both on its own (and the length of the chain is not important) or in combination with a pendant or pendant.

Cobra (snake)

Perhaps, using the example of a “cobra” it is easiest to explain the principle of armor weaving. Such a chain consists of many small links of exactly the same shape, which are connected in the same plane. The decoration looks very solid, like the scales of a snake. It is impossible to find the connection between the links with the naked eye.

There are quite a few varieties of this durable decoration: it can be thin or thick, with a round or square cross-section, matte or glossy - whatever you want. The snake chain is perfect for both men and women. It perfectly complements the business look and discreet office dress code.

Rollo (Belzer, Chopard)

Durable and sturdy, a rollo anchor chain is a piece of jewelry made from round links connected perpendicularly. This type of knitting was loved by the fashion house Chopard, hence the second name for the chain. “Beltzer” is rarely worn as an independent decoration: it looks elegant, simple, airy and therefore serves as an excellent base for an original pendant or pendant. Chopard is equally loved by both men and women. True, the latter prefer a thinner chain.

Cord weaving

This chain or bracelet is very durable and looks quite massive. The original appearance of this twisted bracelet is achieved through links that fit into each other not one at a time, but several rings at a time. At the same time, you can see “jumps” when several links do not enter the adjacent ring, but jump over 2-3 links at once. It looks like a golden wave shimmering in the sun. Cord weaving is more often worn by men, since ladies may find it insufficiently graceful.

Fox tail (Byzantine weave)

Byzantine weaving is also called royal, since this accessory alone is enough to turn an ordinary chain into a full-fledged masterpiece of jewelry art. The product is a lace made of absolutely identical links, which are connected to each other in a fancy way. The master is free to choose both the shape of the links (circle, oval, square, rectangle) and the order of their connection.

When a person who has adorned his neck with a “fox tail” moves, the elements of the chain shimmer—hence the name. Byzantine weaving is very strong and therefore deservedly loved by both sexes. Foxtail chains often look quite impressive. However, one of the most attractive weaving technologies is especially valued by the fairer sex.

Ear

The appearance of such a chain is similar to the Byzantine variety, but it looks a little simpler and more minimalistic. In the previous version of knitting, all the ring links were located in different directions. But the spikelet assumes a unidirectional arrangement of elements. This armored weaving is very difficult to create and requires high skill from the jeweler. But for fashionistas and fashionistas, this knitting is one of their favorites: the “spike” is almost impossible to tangle if stored awkwardly, and the product itself is extremely durable and can easily withstand everyday wear.

Rose (chamomile, courage)

Such chains cannot be made without human intervention. Jewelers use all their skill to create links that look like small spirals (as opposed to traditional rings). Such links are also not easy to connect to each other: in several places at once. An ornate openwork “rope” is formed, which to some resembles a rose, and to others – a chamomile (hence the difference in the name).

This is one of the most delicate and attractive weaving options, since the result is a voluminous, but at the same time light and seemingly weightless openwork chain. Wearing such jewelry is the prerogative of women exclusively. Thin “daisies” can serve as a base for a small pendant. But most often, ladies prefer to wear the “lace” without anything, so as not to burden the openwork beauty of the knitting with unnecessary elements.

Garibaldi

This complicated type of anchor weaving attracts not only its appearance, but also its name. Each link consists of two rings, which are firmly intertwined with each other according to the anchor type (in two planes). But the name comes from the surname of the Italian Garibaldi couple, who shared all of each other’s views and were considered the standard in family relationships. The chain itself looks very delicate and delicate, while being incredibly strong. It is best to complement such a product with a cross, pendant or pendant. But it will look great on its own.

Tourniquet (rope)

Such chains will not be similar to armored, anchor or Bismarck chains. Based on the name, they are more like a strong rope consisting of twisted strong threads. The small links of such a harness are connected very tightly, so the coupling points are extremely difficult to detect. As a result, we get a massive chain that will look appropriate on both men's and women's necks.

True, representatives of different sexes wear them differently. If it is preferable for a man to wear a thick, short harness, then a lady, as a rule, chooses thinner and longer chains. If desired, wrap them in several layers around the neck and add a large pendant or an original pendant with a precious insert.

Rhombus

This type of anchor weaving, in which the links are made not in the form of circles, but in the form of diamonds, has long become a classic among jewelers. Gold chains, which are single, double or triple diamonds, always look impressive and add originality to the look. What is characteristic: such a knitting will set off both a fragile female neck and a powerful male one. It is also suitable for a child, say, as a basis for a pectoral cross. If you are looking for a basic, but at the same time original chain, the “diamond” will easily help you out.

Singapore

Another difficult-to-make armored product, the basis for which is spirals. Such sophisticated twisted chains, obtained through twisted weaving, look especially attractive in the sun or bright light. Their iridescence fascinates and attracts the gaze of passers-by, and therefore designers and stylists do not recommend burdening such jewelry with pendants or pendants.

Love

Also a typically feminine chain, the links of which are made in the shape of hearts. As a rule, this type of mating is most suitable for young, gentle and romantic ladies. This product looks very light, delicate and touching. It is used as an independent decoration and does not require any jewelry additions.

Turtle

This shell chain, which resembles the plates of a turtle, looks very original. It consists of flat links firmly connected into a single chain. A rather serious disadvantage of such weaving is that the “turtle” clings strongly to clothes and hair, pulls out the threads and leaves snags. However, if you have a short hairstyle or tied up hair, and it’s summer outside, you can easily show off in such a unique decoration.

Round bismarck

A slightly transformed version of the usual “Kaiser”. The rounded links are intertwined with each other. As a result, we get a rather heavy and voluminous product, which is more valued by men than by ladies.

Python (Pharaoh and other names)

It’s amazing how many different names there are for this massive and durable chain, which is one of the varieties of “Bismarck”. This type of connection of links (three rows of rings are connected to each other) is recognized by jewelers as the most reliable, which means you can wear the jewelry even in the most extreme conditions. Choose a length and thickness that is comfortable for you, as well as a chain pattern: it is perfect for both men and women. The decoration looks especially appropriate when paired with business-style clothing.

Arabian Bismarck

A fascinating weave that resembles Arabic script. In the traditional version, the basis is two rows of rings, and soldering occurs at the point where the half parts are attached to the main structure. The last step is to pierce each link with an awl and final “assembly” of the chain.

Brook

The figurative name suits this variety of “Bismarck” perfectly. Imagine semi-oval-semicircular links that seem to flow into one another. Due to this trick, the impressive volume of the decoration is preserved with low weight. If you need to save money, rivulet weaving would be an excellent option.

Venice

An anchor chain with wide and thin parts in the form of a square or rectangle is, as jewelers say, “Venetian”. Even links are connected in one plane, odd links in another, forming a strong chain. The larger the elements, the more durable the final product will be. In addition to the traditional single “track”, the “Venetian” can be made in two or three rows - this way it looks much more solemn and luxurious. This knitting is also considered a unisex style: it looks equally good on both men and women.

Perlina

Ukrainian readers, of course, understand this word, although the weaving itself comes from the Italian word meaning surprise! - pearls. What is surprising about this mating is that it does not belong to the types known to us. Here the round links are connected to each other using a thread, like stringed pearls. It is difficult to imagine such chains as a base for pendants or pendants. They are worn as an independent, rather long decoration (at least up to the neckline). At first glance, “perlina” seems fragile, although in fact it is very durable.

Other weaves

This very general phrase denotes all other matings that are still invented today. Any - new or not so - fancy weaving is obtained thanks to a mix of well-known traditional types of links and methods of interlacing them, and the innovations that jewelers bring to these chains.

History of the distant past

Initially, gold items in the form of chains and rings were worn exclusively by men. Such things replaced the fangs and claws of killed animals, which were considered amulets or amulets. But since the division of society into different classes, a person in this way began to show the people around him his status and belonging to one or another clan. Since in ancient times this metal was very expensive, only the top officials of a particular state could afford it, or have it at their disposal. That is, leaders, kings, kings, as well as rich people, among whom there were few women. In ancient times it was a symbol of power and wealth.

It is impossible to say exactly when ladies started wearing such jewelry. But everyone, of course, knows the Queen of Egypt Cleopatra and her love for luxurious, dazzling accessories for the neck, wrists and hair.

It was also believed that gold items helped priests communicate with higher powers, and the color of gold still dominates in churches. Therefore, the knowledge has deeply entered into the minds of people that having jewelry made of such metal is very prestigious. After all, a gold chain or bracelet always looks attractive and even makes ordinary clothes beautiful.

How to choose a lock for a chain

If you have already decided on the type of weaving, it’s time to choose a lock for your future chain. This small element is not inferior in importance to the entire decoration. The types of locks in some places differ greatly from each other, and your task is not only to check the quality of workmanship, but also to pay attention to ease of use. Ideally, you yourself, without outside help, should be able to fasten and unfasten the lock and put on/take off any pendants and pendants.

The jeweler who makes the chains himself determines certain types of locks that will be appropriate in each specific case. The most popular today are:

• carbine - a small loop with a spring-loaded lock that snaps into place when it gets inside the ring;
• spring lock - a small round structure with a spring mechanism.

Functionally, there are no differences between them (both serve to fix jewelry and have a similar principle of operation), the level of ease of use and reliability of the design are also approximately equal. Traditionally, more massive and voluminous products are equipped with a carabiner, but for elegant narrow chains, an almost weightless spring lock would be more appropriate. Both of these structures can be repaired if necessary and are generally extremely reliable. But they are not without their drawbacks: for example, a large carabiner will stand out very much against the background of thin openwork weaves, and fastening it can be difficult if you have long nails. But the carbine will cope perfectly with the need to “add” a massive pendant to a chain without breaking. And a spring lock, due to its miniature size, would be most appropriate on the thinnest product.

There are several other types of fasteners, for example, figure eight, box or hinged. But they are used extremely rarely due to their low reliability or special specificity.

Tsar

A very reliable and strong type of weaving that combines reliability and a solid appearance. A subspecies of armor weaving. The links are staggered and located in the same plane.

This type of weaving, despite its simplicity, looks beautiful, solid and rich.

With a small volume it is suitable for the female half, with a more substantial weight it has excellent success with men. In the women's version, it goes well with pendants and crosses.

How to choose a chain: useful tips

Buying a chain, like any other jewelry, is primarily a matter of taste: whether you like it or not. In addition, this is a matter of your sense of style: a new piece of jewelry should be proportionate to you, harmonious. However, there are several tips that are designed to make it easier for you to choose one chain or another.

• Decide why you are buying a gold chain. It's one thing if you wear it all the time. Then it is wiser to choose a solid gold product with a strong knitting. It's another matter if you intend to flaunt jewelry from time to time as a finishing touch to the look of a specific cocktail dress or suit. Then you can look more at the appearance of the product, without thinking about the possible deformation of the links.
• Decide how long a chain you want to buy. The range of the most popular chain lengths ranges from 40 to 70 cm: a 40 cm chain will tightly “surround” your neck;
• The 50-centimeter will be located on the upper border of the neckline;
• The 60cm will go down to the mid-chest;
• 70 cm will be located approximately at the lower border of the neckline.

But we repeat: most chains are made in a unisex style and will look equally appropriate on both a man’s and a woman’s neck.

• When purchasing, check all the “little things”: the reliability of fastening the links and clasps, the correct placement of the rings (it must be absolutely even), the general appearance of the product, its sample. So, for example, a lock must easily, but at the same time, lock firmly and spring well.
• If you plan to use the chain not as a stand-alone accessory, but in conjunction with a pendant, cross or amulet, check the width of the lugs. Their size should be enough for the pendant to be easily put on and removed from the precious cord - through the entire chain, including its lock.
• When choosing a chain as a base for another piece of jewelry, do not forget about the rules of compatibility. The pendant, pendant or cross must be made of the same metal and match the chain in size and color. Not to be confused with “being absolutely identical”: they just need to look organically together.

Note! Buying a very short chain is risky: not everyone has an ideal neck, and a short “cord” can simply pull you down, creating a suffocating effect. On average, for women it is better to choose basic chains with a length of 45-50 cm, but men will need longer products.

Material for production

Today, of all precious metals, gold is still considered one of the most practical and sought-after elements in expensive jewelry. In its natural form, it is very soft, so an alloy is used in jewelry, where a ligature is added to it. In order for the buyer to find out how much of this metal is in the product, a special marking was introduced with a stamp indicating the sample. There are two systems most used in the world. This:

1. Metric, when the presence of gold is indicated in grams per kilogram of the alloy, so residents of post-Soviet states know the standards: 585, 750, 958. 2. Carat, which is used by jewelers in foreign countries. Here the unit of measurement is the carat. Pure gold is marked 24K, and the 585th hallmark corresponds to 14 carats. That is, when buying a gold product in a store, and especially in a pawnshop, you need to check the stamp, which indicates its fineness. In rings it is on the inner surface, and on chains it is placed on the clasp.

The manufacturer's name must also be engraved if the product was made in Russia. Each client must remember that according to the laws of the Russian Federation, after purchasing such a product, it is no longer possible to return it, even if it turns out to be a fake. Therefore, it is better to buy gold jewelry from jewelry stores that have the appropriate permits.

Chain care

If you wear it every day or put it on “on occasion,” the chain will still get dirty sooner or later. And the more complex and elaborate the weaving, the faster this will happen. Dirt, sweat, and sebum accumulate in the links and between them, and soft gold inevitably gets scratched, no matter how carefully you wear the jewelry. The chain darkens and doesn’t look so impressive.

To make your jewelry last longer, you need to follow a few simple rules when wearing it.

• First of all, compare the size of the pendant and the gold “cord”: a pendant that is too heavy will easily deform the links of the chain. Try to keep the weight of the pendant maximum equal to the weight of the chain itself.
• For the same reason (to avoid deformation or breakage of the product), it is recommended to remove the jewelry at night. This is especially true for thin openwork chains and for cobra-type weaving.
• If possible, do not forget to treat the chain with cleaning agents, since contact with the skin may darken it and lose its original appearance. You can use improvised means. Thus, light stains can be easily removed with toothpaste or even simple soapy water. Experts advise using a soft brush for this, and after placing the product in water, shake the container from time to time. This method will help softened lumps of dirt to free themselves from tightly closed chain links.

If you do not trust popular advice, purchase gold cleaning products at the store and make it a rule to use them regularly.

The skill of jewelers gives us an almost limitless number of chain weaving technologies. The imagination and experience of a specialist, tied together, guarantee that each of us will be able to choose a piece of jewelry to suit our taste, taking into account our appearance, lifestyle and the state of our wallet. We brought to your attention only the most popular types of weaving. But surely right now some inspired jeweler is inventing another knitting, which is in a hurry to complement our Top 20 and become twenty-first on this list.

Famous brands

The cost and design of the accessory depends on the brand. Products from well-known companies are much more expensive than similar models from the mass market. Today, men's chains are produced by many famous companies.

Cartier

Men's chains of this brand have a special, recognizable weave. First there are several small links that are fastened to each other. They are then attached to a longer piece. The products also have a magnificent diamond cut, which gives them a stunning shine.

SunLight

This Italian brand offers popular products. This company has stores in many cities. They offer accessories for every taste.

Bvlgari

This famous Italian company has a rich history. Today it is one of the largest jewelry manufacturers. They are distinguished by their attractive appearance and exclusivity. Such products help to emphasize the individuality and impeccable taste of their owners.

Spikes

This is an American brand that makes its products using titanium and medical steel. The company also uses tungsten carbide for chains. The brand's products are characterized by affordable prices and amazing wear resistance. Such products look incredibly stylish and expensive.

Rombo

With this type of weaving, the chain links are diamond-shaped and located in the same plane. There may be variations in the form of single, double, triple or more weaving.

This type of weaving is generally successful with men due to its strength and overall appearance, but less massive specimens are also popular with women.