Weaving "rhombus"
A type of armor weaving in which diamond-shaped links intersect one into another. Depending on the number of links intersecting each other, single, double and triple diamonds can be distinguished. This is perhaps the most universal weaving that looks great, regardless of the age and gender of the person.
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Women's gold chains with Cartier weave
The “Nonna” twist is not inferior in its beauty to the “Cartier” variety of “Armor” knitting. Otherwise, this type of twist is also called “Figaro”. Weaving has earned such a “talking” name because of its, so to speak, “inconsistency”: the products combine links of various shapes and sizes. This “changeable disposition” of Vitya is very reminiscent of the character of the main character of the play by the French playwright Pierre de Beaumarchais.
In Cartier weaving gold chains, oval or round links are connected to each other in a single plane. The classic formula of this knitting is as follows: 3 round links alternate with 1 oblong ring.
Figaro chains have become extremely popular due to their frequent use by the fashion house Cartier, which is why this type of chaining is also known as Cartier.
Jewelry in the Figaro style looks great in absolutely any length. In addition, women's gold chains with this type of weaving go well with pendants and pendants.
Weaving "nonna"
Contrary to popular belief, the name of the chain weaving has nothing to do with the name Nonna, but comes from the French phrase “grandmother’s weaving,” which sounds like “maglia della nonna.” With this type of weaving, the chain consists of small links enclosed within large ones. This type of decoration can be chosen as an elegant evening option.
Choosing the chain length
One of the important criteria when choosing a chain is its length. As a rule, the size range consists of models from 40 to 70 cm.
- 40 cm – the chain is worn close to the neck
- 50 cm – the chain is worn at the level of the upper part of the neckline
- 60 cm – the chain is worn at the level of the middle part of the neckline
- 70 cm – the chain is worn at the level of the lower part of the neckline
It is believed that it is better for women to choose chains up to 50 cm, and for men - longer. Still, there are exceptions to every rule, and when purchasing jewelry, you must try it on.
"Snake" or jewelry cord
Weaving with a round cross-section. This bracelet is hollow in the middle and, thanks to the light zigzag effect, really resembles a snake. “Snakes” come in very different lengths and thicknesses, which allows you to choose an option for both women and men.
However, they still deserved more attention from the fair sex. Often such chains, especially thicker ones, are used as a full replacement for necklaces. By the way, the latter also come in different lengths, and their type and purpose depend on this characteristic. Chokers, collars, matinees - you can learn more about all types of necklaces in this article.
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Solid or hollow: what's the difference?
All chains, regardless of the type of weaving, are divided into solid and hollow.
A distinctive feature of hollow chains is a combination of volume and lightness. The wire from which the decoration is woven is hollow inside, so despite the external thickness of the links, hollow chains have little weight. Most often they are made using complex decorative types of weaving and look quite solid. The advantage of such chains is their affordable price, which is determined by the weight of the product.
Solid chains are much heavier than hollow ones, which affects the cost of the jewelry. However, they are very comfortable for everyday wear, resistant to deformation and external influences and therefore durable. If the links are damaged, a specialist can easily solder the product and restore its original appearance.
Bismarck weave
Just like “perlina”, “Bismarck” weaving is not included in any group, and yet it is very common. This is a series of complex links, which themselves consist of smaller multidirectional links.
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By the way, often simply choosing a nice chain weave is not enough. After all, decoration can be of different thicknesses and different lengths. And here a lot still depends on which one will suit you personally to your appearance in order to emphasize it as beneficially as possible. Read our article about choosing a necklace and chain to match your appearance!
Which gold chain weave is the strongest?
Today the pace of life is so crazy that it is simply necessary to know which weave of gold chains is the most durable!
The first place in the reliability rating is deservedly occupied by the Bismarck knitting. When other jewelry is torn and lost, this powerful giant will withstand the onslaught of daily hassle with dignity.
“Anchor” twisting, which is so popular in the manufacture of modern precious items, confidently occupied the second position . If you can find a chain with a double row of links, then no sea or land winds will be afraid of it.
The third place was won by the “Shell” knitting. All connoisseurs of comfortable and practical things, as well as adherents of the classics, will definitely like jewelry in this style.
Already familiar to many, “Fox Tail” took fourth place in the ranking. The male half of humanity needs to take a closer look at this option.
In the fifth position are gold chains with “Triplet” weaving, as in the photo. In appearance, they resemble a rope twisted into a bundle.
Byzantine or royal weaving
The “little brother” of the Bismarck weave. Another name is “fox tail”. It is used for massive bracelets and chains. Byzantine weaving consists of links of the same type, sequentially connected into patterns.
Of course, knowing what this or that chain weaving is called is useful both for self-education and from a practical point of view. So, you can always contact a jeweler and make a custom-made chain of exactly the length and thickness that you need. The same goes for earrings: if you want to choose a beautiful pair that will be comfortable to wear, find out what types of locks there are and what they are called.
Combination of chain with bracelet and pendant
Many of us wear a chain all the time, so we don’t perceive it as decoration. However, we should not forget that this is an accessory that, like any piece of jewelry, requires special combination rules.
The pendant should match the chain in size, weight (about twice as light) and metal color. Thus, a large pendant or cross on a thin chain will look ridiculous, and at the same time, a pendant that is too small will not fit on a massive item.
Be sure to check that the ear of the pendant fits freely through the lock.
In addition to ordinary chains, there are also chain bracelets that are often worn by both women and men. Ideally, the types of weaving of both products should match, but this does not happen often - jewelry can be given as a gift, purchased in different places, or several years apart. Therefore, it is enough that the bracelet and chain match each other in thickness and metal. For example, the “Nonna” chain will look good with a “Rhombus” or “Love” weave bracelet, and the “Bismarck” chain will look good with a wide “Armor” knit.
In any case, if you doubt the compatibility of two decorations, it is better to leave one. As the incomparable Coco Chanel said, “When choosing accessories, take off the last thing you put on.”
Which chain is suitable for a man and a woman?
It is worth noting that there are typically female and typically male types of weaving. Thus, men are recommended to pay attention to the “bismarck”, wide armor weave and “diamond”. And for women, Venetian weaving, “lava” and “nonna” chains are suitable. At the same time, a chain made using the “python” technique – a type of male “Bismarck” – will also look great on a woman.
As for the length of the chain, for a woman a universal option would be a chain of 45-50 cm; for men, in most cases, chains of 55-60 cm will be more convenient. Although, of course, everyone should choose the option that will be as comfortable as possible and will suit the chosen image and fashion style. For example, you can find out what jewelry etiquette allows you to wear in the office in our article.
Advantages and disadvantages
Among the obvious advantages of classic anchor weaving it is worth noting:
- Laconic simplicity, facilitating compatibility with any bow and a wide range of pendants.
- Wide variety. After reading this publication, you are probably convinced that anchor weaving can take on different guises.
- Easy and inexpensive customization. A few links will be instantly removed from a chain that is too long in any jewelry workshop right in front of you.
- Maintainability. It is easy to return the chain to its original appearance - no traces of damage will remain.
- Easy to care for. The simpler the weaving, the easier it is to clean the chain, and the spaces between the links do not become so dirty.
Among the shortcomings of basic weaving, we can only mention some external simplicity and low strength, which is more than compensated for by simple and quick repairs. After all, jewelry stores offer a lot of much more reliable and elaborate descendants of a simple, laconic anchor!
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What to pay special attention to
Full-weight chains break extremely rarely - as already mentioned, the weaving is strong and strong.
The problem may be the lock. When buying such a product, pay maximum attention to it; for such a heavy chain, a carbine-type lock is often used, since it is more reliable, and the likelihood that the chain will come undone while moving is very low. A gold product is a very expensive purchase, so purchase it from trusted stores, where you can request a quality certificate, and all the information is indicated on the label next to the product. Be sure to check the carabiner or carefully unclasp it several times. Be careful when buying such products secondhand, as you may be deceived; do not try to save money, as it is known that free cheese is only in a mousetrap. It’s better to pay extra, but be sure of the quality of the product. Try on the product, evaluate whether the length suits you, whether it feels good on you, try on a few more units of similar products. This way you can decide what you like best, because sensations are no less important than the visual image. When choosing a product made of precious metal, you should proceed from your financial capabilities and personal preferences. If you see that it lies neatly and harmoniously, do not hesitate, buy it, and let the product please you for many years. Products woven using the Cardinal technique are very popular due to their exquisite and expensive appearance; they are perfect for a gift to a loved one or for pampering yourself.
Who is the Cardinal weaving intended for?
Previously, products of this type of weaving were intended for the stronger sex, but in the modern world such jewelry can also be found on ladies. It looks equally good on mature women and young ladies. Openwork knitting suggests that you can hang a small pendant or pendant on the chain, but the weaving is very interesting and specific in itself, so there is no need to buy additional elements.
Often, the thinnest tubes are used in production - this way it turns out to create a very light, but at the same time voluminous chain. The only drawback is the high tendency to mechanical damage, in which the thinnest elements of the product are torn. Experts recommend handling such products with the utmost care, since they are difficult to repair - you have to replace the whole link.
In honor of which cardinal
Which cardinal immortalized himself in the name of the weave of this decoration? It is believed that he was the ruler of the German Empire, Otto von Bismarck, who loved such chains. In honor of him they are called Bismarck, Cardinal, Kaiser.
This is one of the versions, according to another - the chain with Bismarck weave was named by jewelers in honor of the German ruler, because it is majestic, durable, reliable and massive - this is exactly how the well-known cardinal was described. That is, the jewelers showed their respect for the ruler? Why not.
We do not know the true history of the origin of weaving and its name, but we know that in the “dashing” nineties, the new “masters of life” - “brothers” - liked to decorate themselves with such chains and bracelets - massive, huge - weighing up to 500 grams. The more weight, the higher the status in certain circles.
Times change, and so does fashion. Chains have become lighter, now they decorate not only a man’s hand or neck, but also an elegant woman’s, in harmony with various outfits.
Production of gold chains
According to the nature of their manufacture, chains are divided into the following types:
- machine knitting;
- manual;
- stamped.
In the first case, thin, light gold chains with small links are obtained. For their manufacture, ultra-thin gold wire is used, the diameter of which does not exceed 0.15 millimeters. The automatic link creation machine works so quickly that it produces 600 pieces in one minute. After the links are fastened together, the finished chain is calcined in a special oven. There, under the influence of high temperature, the ends of each link are soldered, which guarantees the strength of the product. If all technological processes are carried out without violating the rules, the machine-knitted chain will serve its owner for many years.
In terms of quality and reliability, machine-made gold chains cannot be compared with hand-knitted products.
The beauty of the finished jewelry and its durability depend on the skill of the jeweler. The manual method of creating products is often resorted to in small private workshops. They are also used in large enterprises, since truly exclusive products are created only by hand. When knitting by hand, you can create chains weighing up to 6 grams.
Stamped chains are produced using special dies. The shapes of individual links are pressed into gold sheet metal using stamps. Moreover, the thickness of the gold sheet does not exceed 0.3 millimeters. This type of production is less expensive and faster, and stamped chains look more voluminous, although their weight remains light. But in strength and durability they are inferior to machine-knitted and hand-knitted chains.
Making gold wire for chains
Craftsmen created exquisite jewelry from these thin twigs back in Ancient Egypt. Modern technologies make it possible to produce wire up to 3 kilometers long from one gram of pure gold. Surprisingly, ancient jewelers also possessed similar skills, although they did not have our high-precision units. During archaeological excavations in Egyptian Abydos, experts found gold jewelry made of wire, the diameter of which was equal to the thickness of a human hair - no more than a third of a millimeter!
Making twigs for knitting chains is a very painstaking work that requires attentiveness from the master. First, molten gold is poured into a mold (mold for ingots), producing a wire half a centimeter in diameter. It is stretched by passing it through several holes, the diameter of which gradually decreases.
The thickness of the finished wire varies from 0.2 to 2 millimeters.
The choice of thickness depends on what kind of jewelry the master plans to create from it: a chain, bracelet or earring loop. The expected weight of the future decoration is also taken into account - for weightless feminine ones you need the thinnest wire, and for masculine ones thicker.
When the master has received a twig of the required diameter, the formation of the links of the future chain begins. The gold thread is wound onto a special base and then removed from it to form a spiral. Then, using scissors, rings of the same diameter are cut.
Next, the craftsman manually fastens these links, taking into account the chosen type of weaving, and solders each one with solder so that they hold tightly. After this, the chain is clamped in special shafts and the links are made flat. The next stage is installing the lock and polishing the decoration.
The emergence and use of knitting by jewelers
So anchor weaving appeared on its own, without involving the imagination of jewelers. Rather, it was borrowed from maritime activities, where the anchor chain had approximately the same appearance. Since those times, the technology for making such a product has not changed at all, the links are connected in the same order, only variations on the theme of knitting have appeared, and sometimes the shape of the links changes.
Anchor weaving
The essence of this type of knitting is that the links are sequentially connected to each other at a perpendicular angle. Jewelry made using this technology is durable and suitable for any gender. Since anchor products have a simple look, they are often bought for children.
The links have the same dimensions, and the product itself can be manufactured in the following ways:
- Hand knitted. The task of the chain maker is to cast an elongated wire from gold, which is subsequently divided into several dozen identical parts. Next, the master bends each piece individually with a special device and weaves the product. Thus, the links are connected manually one by one. True, now this particular type of chain weaving is rarely ordered from craftsmen.
- Machine knitting. This method of making jewelry is a little cheaper, but the essence remains the same, and the process is controlled by a machine. Therefore, the chain turns out to be more symmetrical and neat.
The filling of the anchor chain can also be different. In one case, the jewelry will be filled with gold of the same standard, and in the other, the links will be hollow. The volume of the links allows the buyer to choose whether they are full or hollow. Filled links are more durable and are also easier to repair if the chain or bracelet breaks. Soldering a break in a filled anchor chain is simple and invisible to outsiders. But you won’t be able to cope with a hollow product; you’ll have to lose several links.
In addition, hollow products are more fragile and more likely to break. Do not forget that a filled anchor chain is quite heavy in weight, so it will cost more than a hollow analogue. To reduce the cost of the product, you can order or purchase gold-plated jewelry. It will be the same in appearance. It’s just that from time to time the chain will fray, and the gilded ball will have to be restored. In general, anchor chains and other products fall into the mid-price category.
Anchor weaving is great for those who do not know the size of the jewelry and are taking it as a gift. Because it is quite easy to pull out several links to shorten the product. You can also add links, which are purchased to order from a jeweler, to a finished piece of jewelry to increase the length.
Don’t forget that anchor weaving is suitable for any pendant or pendant. The main rule of style is that the knitting of a chain or bracelet does not distract attention from the pendant. Fancy chains or armored weaving already attract attention in themselves and are independent chains. But anchor jewelry, like no other, is suitable for complementing with a pendant.
Anchor weave chain
It even sometimes happens that without an additional element, anchor weaving looks unfinished and discreet. It is quite discreet, so it is suitable for adding religious symbols, for example, a cross. You can order pendants of different sizes for anchor weaving. The main thing is that the eye of the pendant goes into the volumetric chain. This will require preliminary fitting. Even massive pendants will not look tacky.
What to wear with Cobra weave
Products of this type have not lost popularity for a long time. What's the secret? They are in demand in the jewelry market due to their versatility. Of course, there are many analogues, but most often it is armor weaving, and in particular “Cobra”, that is chosen to emphasize status. As you know, too elaborate decorations cannot boast of this, because they are designed for a purely individual taste. “Cobra,” in turn, will not leave anyone indifferent.
As we have already mentioned, Cobra weaving is much more often chosen by men. A classic flat bracelet will be a great addition to a pantsuit, paired with basic gold cufflinks, or to a casual look. However, it is almost incompatible with light clothing, because, as is already known, jewelry made from this weave has more status. If you are not afraid of experiments, you can use a massive chain made in Cobra weave as an attribute to a sporty look. Of course, it should still look smart.
Women also choose Cobra. In this case, a bracelet or chain made from this weave is an addition to some strict look or evening dress in basic colors. This will well dilute your monolook - an image consisting of clothes and accessories of the same color.
