Types of weaving gold chains for women and men

Types of hand and machine weaving of gold chains around the neck

Using stamping, craftsmen make such types of gold chains as, for example, anchor and “Love”. These chains are made from specially prepared links - stamps. The parts are not soldered together, but threaded into each other. Such jewelry is not very durable, gets very twisted and is easily deformed.

The manual type of work is characterized by the production of the most expensive types of weaving gold chains for women and men. It takes a lot of time to produce one piece of jewelry, because the craftsman does without any automatic tools throughout the entire process. The weight of such products is at least 6 g. It is for twisting “Bismarck” and “Fox Tail” - it is also called “Byzantine” - that handmade jewelers are used.

The most common type of making patterns in gold chains is considered to be machine making. From the name it immediately becomes clear that the product is produced using automated equipment. In such cases, craftsmen can work with very small links - up to 0.2 mm. Machine weaving of gold neck chains is much cheaper than hand weaving. Varieties of weaving “Nonna” and “Double Anchor” are produced using machine technology.

It is customary to distinguish three main technologies for twisting chains: “Bismarck”, “Anchor” and “Pantsirnaya”. However, over the years, these varieties have received many variations. Now there are about 50 types of them: from the simplest to chains with intricate links. The names of weaving chains made of gold are very unusual, but this does not make the jewelry look any less attractive.

The history of the discovery of such technology

The history of the technology is interesting. According to experts, it goes back to the distant Bronze Age. Some of the first samples were found at royal graves in the city of Ur, which is located in the Middle East. However, it was never possible to reliably find out where exactly the weaving itself came from. Some historians suggest that it appeared in Byzantium (this hypothesis gave one of its names).

Another part of the researchers is inclined to believe that the invention belongs to the masters of Ancient Greece and Rome.

This jewelry technology quickly gained popularity and spread widely throughout Europe, soon coming to Russia. Even now, a large number of jewelers from all over the world use Fox Tail to obtain various copies of ancient jewelry from ancient times, to make something new and unique, and also to decorate their original works. A large number of private craftsmen in Moscow make amazing products and jewelry based precisely on this technique, trying to make something new and original.

Weaving women's gold chains in the Bismarck style (with photo)

Bismarck weaving in gold chains is the most popular and most widespread. According to established opinion, this type of pattern is considered characteristic of men's products. But depending on the thickness of the links used, this type of knitting may also be suitable for the fair sex.

Please note that in the photo of the Bismarck weave in the gold chain one peculiar feature is noticeable: the links are connected in different directions.

Some sources say that Vitje earned its name thanks to the German Chancellor Otto von Bismarck. Therefore, this variety, like the great figure of the German Empire, is sometimes also called “Kaiser” or “Cardinal”.

It turns out that several hundred years before Otto von Bismarck, this weaving was considered exclusively for women, and the chains that were made in this style seemed extremely fragile and were long. However, due to its exceptional strength, after some time men's chains began to be decorated with this pattern.

Cardinal weaving in gold chains, as in the photo, can be either simple or complex and consist of two, three or four layers of links. The length of such decorations is always at least 50 cm.

In addition to the fact that “Bismarck” is one of the strongest types of mating, it is considered one of the most complex and labor-intensive. Naturally, such a pattern is made only by hand. The principle of operation is that the links are connected in a truly imaginative way! And the elements of the pattern themselves consist of rings that are directed in different directions.

You can see this striking feature in the photo of a women's gold chain with Bismarck weave:

A chain made in the Bismarck style will give its owner an aristocratic look. Depending on the wishes of the buyer, the weight of such a product may vary.

Manufacturing technique

“Fox tail” is woven only by hand: there are no machines capable of making a chain using this technique yet. Weaving requires great skill from the jeweler and is considered one of the most difficult. To accomplish this, links of different shapes are connected in series:

The thickness of the links determines the width of the future chain or bracelet.

The process of weaving a “Fox Tail” is labor-intensive and painstaking. The master uses special curved thin-nose pliers without notches, carefully connecting the elements together. The work takes a lot of time and requires maximum concentration on the process.

Both hollow and solid metal wire can be used to make a chain. In the first case, you will get a “blown” chain, in the second - a cast one.

Varieties of weaving gold chains: “Python”, “Cardinal”, “Italian” and others (with photo)

What types of weaving gold chains in the Bismarck style exist in nature?

“Royal Bismarck” will amaze any connoisseur of true beauty with its exquisite shape. The ornate way of weaving will look great on the necks of a respectable gentleman or a sophisticated lady.

“Arab Bismarck” will inspire those who see it with oriental motifs: the pattern resembles the ligature of the Arabic alphabet.

“Flat” is a classic version of the pattern in which the links have a double curl in a spiral.

“Python” (“Cardinal”, “Italian”, “Kaiser”) got its name due to the volume and thickness of the links.

Python weaving in a gold chain is a slightly more complicated version of Bismarck weaving. The main advantage of this type of jewelry is that it looks more feminine and has a unique shine when in motion.

But do not forget that products with this name - “Python” weaving in gold chains in the photo can be seen in more detail - have a number of specific characteristics:

  1. Such decorations are still quite massive;
  2. It is quite difficult to match them with another piece of jewelry - a pendant or pendant;
  3. Python chains are often very heavy.

A gold chain with “Italian” weave – another name for “Python” – is easier to imagine on the neck of an older woman than on the chest of a fragile, young girl. Such a thing looks very respectable and without further ado speaks of the high status and position in society of its owner or owner. There is a tendency that men buy this product more often than women, since a chain with a similar pattern looks quite impressive in combination with almost any clothing.

Representatives of the fair sex wear beautiful gold chains with Italian weave under magnificent evening dresses: stylists vying with each other to say that this jewelry is an excellent addition to a long dress.

Due to their heavy weight, gold chains with “Cardinal” weave – this is also the name for the “Python” pattern – are equipped with a reliable lock, which is another advantage of these jewelry.

It should be noted that the links in such products are not deformed, since they fit very tightly to each other. In addition, if the jewelry is made by hand by a master jeweler, then the weight of the chain will reach at least 6 g.

If you take a closer look at the photo of gold chains with Italian weave, you can once again be convinced that they cannot be correlated by gender:

Since jewelry is produced in any length and thickness, it will therefore easily become an excellent gift for a close friend or a serious business partner.

And if you manage to find a thin gold chain for women with “Cardinal” weave, then it will fit perfectly with a cross or amulet, which are hidden under clothing so that it is not visible to prying eyes.

Characteristic features of Fox tail weaving

Byzantine weaving is a very complex technique. It has characteristic features of both anchor and shell weaving, but, in essence, is an independent technique. Weaving is done link by link, but several links are located nearby, and in several planes.

Byzantium (Fox Tail, Byzantina, Roman Chain, Royal Bismarck) is woven exclusively by hand - such “smart” machines have not yet been invented. The jeweler arms himself with special thin-nose pliers, calls on all his experience and patience to help, and creates magic!

The result is luxurious, voluminous chains of very dense weaving. Moreover, the location and shape of the links can be very diverse - this is how fantasy weaving and exclusive jewelry are born.

Byzantine chains are very luxurious and solid. They are chosen mainly for men, as well as ladies of an elegant age - for young girls Byzantium is somewhat heavy. But there are exceptions: with an evening dress (for example, the notorious Chanel “little black”) such a chain will look great on any representative of the fair sex.

As mentioned above, weaving the Fox Tail chain is one of the many varieties of Byzantine weaving. Its characteristic feature is the direction of the links in one direction: they diverge at an angle, forming something like a fox tail.

The fox tail is less cumbersome and pretentious than the classical Byzantium. It is less demanding on bows: chains made using this technique can be combined with everyday women's and men's wardrobe, and, if desired, decorated with pendants carefully selected to match the style.

This technique has distinctive characteristics. It must be said right away that the Fox tail and “Byzantine” weaving types are not exactly the same thing. The first is a variation of the second. In general, the “Byzantine” is characterized by a tight connection of several rings in one row (chain mail weaving), however, only for the “fox tail” it is necessary that all the rings be directed in one direction.

If the “Byzantine” weaving can look heavy and massive due to the protruding rings, then the “fox tail” is distinguished by its subtlety and grace.

The peculiarity of chains of this type is the dense arrangement of links, in which there are practically no gaps. This is what makes the products look massive and dense. However, despite the tightly spaced links, this weaving is quite flexible.

The appearance of the finished chain depends not only on the location of the links, but also on their shape. For foxtails, square links are more often used, which can be easily laid in one direction without protruding or standing out.

Chains made of yellow and white gold with “Anchor” weaving (with photo)

Gold chains with “Anchor” weaving use the simplest technology for fastening links. In such products, one link is located perpendicular to the other. This pattern's structure resembles a real ship's chain.

Jewelry made in a classic style has an oval shape of link rings. But products with elongated parts are also very popular.

Look at an example of elongated links in a gold chain with “Anchor” weaving in the photo:

Products made of white and yellow gold with a similar pattern can be made using stamping, machine knitting or manually. A master jeweler does not need to put a lot of effort into making a piece of jewelry. But for handmade chains the price is much higher than for those products that are made by machine or stamping. The last two technologies are not an indication that the chain will look or wear worse than handcrafted items.

It is “anchor” chains, like jewelry in the Bismarck style, that are considered to be one of the most durable and unpretentious. The items are very easy to care for: they are not difficult to wash, since the jewelry does not consist of intricately woven links.

But there is one nuance: when choosing a chain with such a twist, you need to carefully examine its lock. At first glance, it should not raise any doubts in the buyer. You need to make sure that the fastening mechanism is strong enough.

“Anchor” knitting is universal: it is suitable for both men and women. Who will wear the chain depends on its length and thickness.

The big advantage of such jewelry is that they go well with other jewelry. This is very important because many people are used to wearing gold chains with rings, bracelets or pendants. Due to its external simplicity, chains with an “Anchor” pattern look great with a variety of pendants. You just need to pay attention to the size of the pendants so that they visually match the thickness of the chain itself.

Very often, godparents give chains made in silver or white gold with “Anchor” weaving to their wards before the baptism ceremony.

Where is it used?

“Fox tail” is often used to create women's jewelry. Its ornate structure looks great in yellow, red and white gold. A silver chain or bracelet with blackening looks interesting: after processing, the pattern seems more voluminous and expressive.

Products made using the Fox Tail technique are suitable as holiday decorations. They can be combined with a formal or evening outfit. The self-sufficiency of the decoration allows you to abandon other accessories, making the “Fox Tail” the main detail of the image.

Video

Gold chains with “Armor” weaving: photos and names

This technology has become the basis for the creation of many varieties of decorative curling. Its peculiarity lies in the fact that the flat links, which are polished on both sides, are connected not in a perpendicular plane, but as if in the same plane.

It is precisely due to its high strength that the technology received the name “Armor”. And also because this type of knitting has a striking resemblance to chain mail links.

This method of chain mail armor is very common when making neck jewelry. Unlike products in the “Anchor” style, gold chains with “Armor” weaving have a beautiful smooth surface, which creates the feeling that the links form a single whole.

Nowadays, there are a great many varieties of “Armor” knitting.

Photos with the names of weaving chains made of gold can be examined in detail by looking below:

“Nonna” is a type of knitting in which both sides of the jewelry are processed using a diamond edge. Such jewelry sparkles magnificently in the sun. From Italian the name of this knitting is translated as “Grandma’s weave”: equally durable, beautiful and smooth.

“Figaro” or, as it is commonly called, “Cartier” - in connection with the use of jewelry in this style by the world famous fashion house - is distinguished by patterns of links of various shapes and sizes.

The "Armor Parallel" knitting uses two round links woven together.

“Love” – resembles hearts fastened together. These products are literally weightless - very light and airy.

“Snail” (“Clip”) – the pattern in this type of twisting resembles a snail shell. And all because the links are spirally connected to each other.

“Byzantine” - links connected in a fantasy pattern add sophistication and grandeur to the decoration. This type of weaving is considered especially durable and reliable.

“Rhombus” (“Rhombo”) - this twist got its name because of the diamond-shaped shape of the links. The knitting consists of rings connected in series, polished on both sides and located in a single plane.

Elegant gold chains with Nonna weaving and their photos

Gold chains with “Nonna” weaving are considered the most elegant among products with “Armor” knitting. The diamond cut, a method of processing jewelry, gives this type of weaving a shimmering shine in the light.

Even if at first glance it seems that the chains in this unusual style are too fragile, there is no need to be afraid that they will become deformed.

The photo of a gold chain with Nonna weaving shows that the fastening of the links is quite strong and reliable:

The name "Maglia della Nonna" is translated from Italian as "grandmother's weaving". This type of Vitya earned this name due to its external sophistication and extraordinary grace.

This fashionable weaving in gold chains is typical for women's jewelry. But if large links are used in the manufacture of the product, then such a piece of jewelry will easily suit representatives of the stronger half of humanity.

Additional accessories

When a man already has a chain that he constantly wears, or wants to make the gift more personal, purchase a pendant. Her choice is based on the style in which the base is made. The pendant can only be worn on thin jewelry. The most suitable weaves are considered to be anchor, armor, diamond and others that do not add width to the product.

You can buy a pendant for a representative of the stronger sex or order it in an online store, taking into account the main trends. Popular pendants are:

  • Crosses or incense with religious motifs. They are worn on chains, the length of which allows you to hide the jewelry under a shirt or T-shirt.
  • Sports attributes for avid fans: a miniature football or basketball, a hockey stick, a pendant in the shape of skis or skates, etc.
  • Amulets with ancient Slavic symbols.
  • Pendants with the image of the zodiac sign. A gem that is favorable according to the horoscope is added to them so that the man will have good luck.
  • A key made of precious metal as a sign of devotion can be given to the chosen one by a girl in love.
  • Skulls and wings are suitable for those who like to drive fast in a personal car or motorcycle.
  • The fang of a wild animal will look impressive on a gilded chain. This pendant has a special value because it is made by hand.
  • A grenade or dagger will be a good gift for those who served in the army or love military reenactments.
  • Engraved metal plates do not lose their relevance.

In order for the gift to be appreciated, you can give a man inexpensive jewelry. It is important to take into account the range of interests of the applicant.

Women's gold chains with Cartier weave

The “Nonna” twist is not inferior in its beauty to the “Cartier” variety of “Armor” knitting. Otherwise, this type of twist is also called “Figaro”. Weaving has earned such a “talking” name because of its, so to speak, “inconsistency”: the products combine links of various shapes and sizes. This “changeable disposition” of Vitya is very reminiscent of the character of the main character of the play by the French playwright Pierre de Beaumarchais.

In Cartier weaving gold chains, oval or round links are connected to each other in a single plane. The classic formula of this knitting is as follows: 3 round links alternate with 1 oblong ring.

Figaro chains have become extremely popular due to their frequent use by the fashion house Cartier, which is why this type of chaining is also known as Cartier.

Jewelry in the Figaro style looks great in absolutely any length. In addition, women's gold chains with this type of weaving go well with pendants and pendants.

Women's gold chains with "Love" weaving (with photo)

“Love” chains are an ideal gift for a loved one

You can guess that gold chains with “Love” weaving deserve their name because of the very romantic shape of the links. Rings that resemble fastened hearts look elegant on the necks of young girls.

This sophisticated twist is made of round, even loops. The edges of the links touch each other.

Jewelry of this type is a wonderful gift option for the fair sex. After all, chains with Love twists are used to wear exquisite pendants and pendants under evening or cocktail dresses.

Looking at the photo of a gold chain with “Lav” weaving, you can see that, thanks to the ease of weaving, you can wear several items at the same time:

In this case, the “airiness effect” will be even more noticeable.

Perlina

An unusual version of weaving, which is a combination of gold cylinders and gold balls, forming an unusual shape of a gold chain. It looks really unusual and will definitely emphasize the individuality of the owner of such a chain. However, due to the many elements, the chain is not very strong and can be broken quite easily with certain efforts, so you need to wear it more carefully. It also easily clings to hair and clothes.

It has many design options: “Scythe”, “Ball”, Double”, “Classic” and others. They are often complemented with inserts of gold or platinum balls.

Predominantly female version.

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Gold chains with Byzantine weaving

To make massive gold chains, the Fox Tail twist is most often used. With the help of this knitting, links of the same size and shape are connected in a fantasy plexus. It is this type of fastening that allows you to give the product a unique shine in the sun.

The photo of a gold chain with “Byzantine” weaving shows that this jewelry is particularly durable and dense, regal in beauty and sophistication.

Products in the Fox Tail style are more common among men. Chains with this knit look great in any gold color, so you can wear them with whatever outfit you want.

If a representative of the female half of humanity wants to buy herself a piece of jewelry with a “Byzantine” twist, then it is better for her to opt for its “Spikelet” variety.

This knitting is very similar to the “Fox Tail”, but in the pattern of such products the links point in one direction.

This type of weaving of gold chains, as in the photo, looks like a spike of wheat:

By the way, jewelry with this pattern is very popular in Great Britain.

In addition, products in the Spikelet style are very durable and can be worn daily. It takes a lot of effort to confuse such a chain!

Pharaoh, echo of Ancient Egypt

This type of connection has been known since the reign of Pharaoh Tutankhamun. On his mummy in the tomb, archaeologists found a decoration with an interesting weave. The “Pharaoh” chain consists of links located in longitudinal and transverse planes. The rings create an openwork look; between them there is an empty space filled with air. The product looks voluminous and is suitable for respectable men and mature ladies. The “Pharaoh” connection is considered the most resistant to abrasion and has a long service life.

Gold chains with “Rhombus”, “Double Diamond” and “Triple Diamond” weaving

Exquisite gold chains with “Rhombus” weaving, endowed with an original appearance, are very popular among connoisseurs of classical beauty. The peculiarity of these jewelry lies in the links, which, as you might have guessed, have a special diamond shape.

In some cases, the pattern rings are diamond cut, which gives the product a shimmering effect.

It is generally accepted that the “Rhombus” weave is predominantly a man’s weave. But technology does not stand still, so in our time more elegant chains of such knitting are being created that have already appealed to thousands of women.

Depending on how many links are fastened together, the pattern can be single, double (see the photo for an example of a gold chain with “Double Diamond” weaving) or triple:

Weaving from rings located inside each other visually gives the jewelry volume.

In what cases and how to wear the product

Decorating yourself with such a chain will be appropriate and advantageous in the following situations:

  1. For a young girl going to a special event. A lighter weave, thin and delicate, will look impressive in everyday wear.
  2. A lady of Balzac's age can easily combine Byzantine chains with clothes in a classical style. In this case, the product will not only perform an aesthetic function, but will also become an indicator of the status and taste of the owner.
  3. As for the material from which the chain or other jewelry is made, a silver chain of Byzantine weaving would be very appropriate at a meeting with friends, on a date with a young man, at the theater or at a concert. If the event is of a more significant nature, gold chains will emphasize its importance. Byzantine weaving looks great at a wedding or anniversary.

For a man, a chain with a combination of metals and flowers or a gold-plated steel bracelet is suitable. In this case, steel will look no less impressive than jewelry made from precious materials. As for age, Byzantine weaving is always suitable for men, but it is still preferred by men over 35.

The thickness of the chain has a big impact on who and where it is best to wear it. Thus, more massive products will suit older men, or women at formal evenings. A thin chain will highlight your everyday look. A silver chain will fit well into your everyday look, while a gold one is more suitable for evening outings.

In Moscow, they listen to recommendations not to wear Byzantine chains with additional jewelry or decorative elements. Byzantine weaving suggests that the gold or silver chain is a decoration in itself and does not need additional support. Any additional element will make the decoration more simple and ordinary. If, nevertheless, habit or taste requires wearing additional elements, then their mass should not be greater than the mass of the chain itself. This applies to any decoration, regardless of what kind of weaving it is created with.

Which gold chain weave is the strongest?

Today the pace of life is so crazy that it is simply necessary to know which weave of gold chains is the most durable!

The first place in the reliability rating is deservedly occupied by the Bismarck knitting. When other jewelry is torn and lost, this powerful giant will withstand the onslaught of daily hassle with dignity.

“Anchor” twisting, which is so popular in the manufacture of modern precious items, confidently occupied the second position . If you can find a chain with a double row of links, then no sea or land winds will be afraid of it.

The third place was won by the “Shell” knitting. All connoisseurs of comfortable and practical things, as well as adherents of the classics, will definitely like jewelry in this style.

Already familiar to many, “Fox Tail” took fourth place in the ranking. The male half of humanity needs to take a closer look at this option.

In the fifth position are gold chains with “Triplet” weaving, as in the photo. In appearance, they resemble a rope twisted into a bundle.

Creation methods

At the moment, manufacturers of jewelry accessories present a large number of chains: short, long, wide, narrow, traditional, decorative, for different genders, gold and silver. Chains are made in different ways:

  • manual;
  • automatic knitting;
  • punching.

Weaving gold chains using a specialized machine is considered an automated technology. The use of machines helps produce jewelry with links up to 0.2 millimeters thick. Despite the fact that automation has come a long way, certain types of chain weaving can only be done by hand. And this cannot be done without professional craftsmen. The smallest weight of a hand-woven chain is approximately 6 grams, and its quality largely depends on the jewelry maker. This is actually painstaking and difficult work. Initially, you need to pull out a wire from silver or gold, wind it on a prepared base and cut the resulting spiral into rings of the same size. The chain maker manually makes it stronger using pliers, connecting a pattern that involves a type of weaving. To prevent the rings from diverging, all elements are connected to each other. The prepared chain will be clamped between specialized shafts to make the link flat.

Stamped chains will be made from a finished link. They are not connected to each other, but made together. In general, such accessories are less durable.

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