A chain is the most versatile and functional product, which, thanks to the skill of specialists, has become a full-fledged piece of jewelry. It is worn as an independent accessory, complemented with a pendant, a body icon or a cross.
Now jewelry manufacturers offer us a huge number of chains: short and elongated, wide and narrow, classic and decorative, men's and women's, gold and silver, not to mention dozens of different types of weaving. How to choose a chain that is right for you? We invite you to figure this out together.
Chain weaving technologies
Chains are made in several ways - by hand, machine knitting or stamping.
Machine weaving is an automated technology using special equipment. The use of machines allows you to create jewelry with links up to 0.2 mm thick.
Despite the latest technologies, some types of weaving can only be done by hand. And here you can’t do without specialists – chain tyers. The minimum weight of a hand-woven chain is about 6 grams, and its quality largely depends on the skill of the jeweler.
This is really painstaking and time-consuming work. First you need to stretch the gold or silver wire, wind it on the prepared base and cut the resulting spiral into rings of the same size. The chain maker manually fastens the links using pliers, “linking” the pattern, which involves the type of weaving. To prevent the rings from falling apart, all the links are soldered. The resulting chain is clamped between special shafts so that the links become flat.
Stamped chains are made from ready-made links - stamps. At the same time, they are not soldered together, but threaded into each other. As a rule, such jewelry is less durable, easily twisted and deformed.
How to choose a gold or silver chain with strong weaving
First of all, it is recommended to pay attention to the weight of the product. Jewelry that weighs 1-2 grams cannot, in principle, be durable. To choose a gold women's chain with strong weaving, do the following:
- Take the product in your hand and stretch it with your fingers. Carefully inspect the links: they should all be the same diameter and shape.
- Check that the ends of the elements are sealed and that there are no irregularities at the junction.
- Try opening and closing the clasp several times. It should click smoothly and tightly.
- Try on the jewelry to understand whether it is convenient to put it on and take it off yourself, whether the chain catches on your clothes, or whether the lock comes undone when moving or pulling lightly.
The strongest weave of the silver chain will ensure a reliable connection of the elements. But just as with gold, you need to pay attention to the clasp. It should be visually larger than the link.
If you plan to constantly wear a pendant, medallion or pendant, it is better to choose a product with a movable connection of elements. And finally, about the cost of jewelry.
If you are offered to purchase a chain that is much cheaper than similar models, it may be made from hollow rings. It's better to refuse the purchase. Remember, strong weaving of a silver chain requires a lot of labor, the use of high-quality material and specialized equipment. Therefore, such a product cannot be cheap.
Solid or hollow: what's the difference?
All chains, regardless of the type of weaving, are divided into solid and hollow.
A distinctive feature of hollow chains is a combination of volume and lightness. The wire from which the decoration is woven is hollow inside, so despite the external thickness of the links, hollow chains have little weight. Most often they are made using complex decorative types of weaving and look quite solid. The advantage of such chains is their affordable price, which is determined by the weight of the product.
Solid chains are much heavier than hollow ones, which affects the cost of the jewelry. However, they are very comfortable for everyday wear, resistant to deformation and external influences and therefore durable. If the links are damaged, a specialist can easily solder the product and restore its original appearance.
What determines the strength of a gold chain?
The strength of such decoration directly depends on the reliability of each of the links. The more the chain weighs, the more reliable it will be. Products weighing up to 2 g are considered the most vulnerable to damage. Such jewelry must be handled with the utmost care. Solid chains are much stronger than “blown” and hollow ones, but the cost of such accessories is much higher.
Omega and herringbone chains are considered the least reliable. It is not recommended to twist products of this type, as they can easily become deformed and cannot be repaired.
Types of chain weaving
There are three basic technologies for knitting chains: “Anchor”, “Pantsirnaya” and “Bismarck”. Over time, they received so many variations that today there are more than 50 types of weaving: from the simplest to the most intricate with links of a complex configuration. Each weave has a special name and can be made in either gold or silver.
It’s easy to guess that “Anchor” weaving got its name due to its resemblance to the weaving of a real anchor chain. It is simple and uncomplicated. In the classic version of weaving, each link has an oval shape.
Links can consist of either one or two “rings”. Therefore, the “Double Anchor” .
"Anchor" weave with round shaped links is known as "Rollo" . At one time, this type of knitting became popular thanks to the fashion house Chopard, so it has a second name - “Chopard” .
Garibaldi weave is very similar to Rollo . The links of these chains have a round forked shape. It is believed that the knitting was named in honor of the spouses Giuseppe and Anita Garibaldi, folk heroes of the liberation movement of Italy, who were very friendly and shared each other’s views.
Fantasy types of “Anchor” weaving also include “Aurora” and “Hawaiian” .
“Shell” technology has become the basis for creating various types of decorative weaving. Its distinctive feature is that the flat links, polished on both sides, are not attached perpendicular to each other, but as if in the same plane. The technology, characterized by its high strength, got its name due to its resemblance to chain mail links.
Weaving can be single, double or triple, depending on the number of rings connected. A “shell” knit with diamond-shaped links is called “Diamond” (it can also be double or triple).
“Nonna” is one of the most elegant varieties of armor weaving. Thanks to the diamond edge applied on both sides, such chains shine more in the light. Despite the external sophistication, these jewelry are very durable. Oddly enough, the name of the weave has nothing to do with the woman's name. Nonna is short for the Italian maglia della nonna, which means "grandmother's weave."
The most popular twisted weaves are the rope-like “Korda” and “Singapore” . Such chains are usually worn by women. These decorations are elegant and at the same time reliable in use.
But the truly masculine type of weaving in Russia is considered “Bismarck” . Named, according to one version, in honor of the first Chancellor of the German Empire, Otto von Bismarck, he is also known as "Kaiser" or "Cardinal" . This weaving is one of the most complex and is therefore often done by hand. Fantasy knitting consists of links, which in turn consist of several multidirectional “rings”. The weave can be double, triple or quadruple, making it one of the strongest. Due to its thickness and volume, one of the varieties of “Bismarck” was called “Python” .
Question-answer section
My husband has long dreamed of a thick chain that would not look pretentious. What types of weaving can there be?
Expert opinion
Grishanov Mikhail Petrovich
Jeweler, director of the Grishanov and Co. workshop
It is definitely worth considering such options as “Bismarck Flat”, “Spikelet” and “Double Diamond”. Such products look brutal, emphasize the masculinity of the owner and are very durable. Thick links in the Double Diamond weave chains especially focus attention on the man’s broad shoulders.
Which type of weaving is better and more reliable: hand or machine?
Expert opinion
Pribrezhny Gennady Valentinovich
Jeweler 6th category
In fact, the manufacturing technology does not affect the strength of the product. Machines, like people, are capable of creating high-quality jewelry; resistance to external factors is influenced by the type of weaving itself.
Gold details for chain weaving
Which gold chain weave is the most durable for women?
Expert opinion
Grishanov Mikhail Petrovich
Jeweler, director of the Grishanov and Co. workshop
There are many strong types of gold chain weaving, but Bismarck has no equal in strength. The fact is that one row of elements interlocks with another, which ultimately creates a very strong chain. “Bismarck” has many subspecies: “Python”, “Fox Tail”, “Triple”, “Rose” and others. If your goal is to purchase durable gold jewelry, these are the options you should consider.
Silver neck jewelry for men, what options are there?
Expert opinion
Pribrezhny Gennady Valentinovich
Jeweler 6th category
You can complement the chain with a variety of jewelry. This could be a pendant with a Celtic pattern, a talisman or some other symbolism. In the case of silver, crosses, amulet and tokens made from this metal look especially impressive. The choice of jewelry will depend on the type of weaving of the silver chain, its thickness, and the preferences of the owner.
Which chain weave is the strongest in silver?
Expert opinion
Grishanov Mikhail Petrovich
Jeweler, director of the Grishanov and Co. workshop
“Shell”, “Python” and “Anchor” weaving are clear favorites. Please note that the strength of the chain is directly affected by its thickness and weight.
Choosing the chain length
One of the important criteria when choosing a chain is its length. As a rule, the size range consists of models from 40 to 70 cm.
- 40 cm – the chain is worn close to the neck
- 50 cm – the chain is worn at the level of the upper part of the neckline
- 60 cm – the chain is worn at the level of the middle part of the neckline
- 70 cm – the chain is worn at the level of the lower part of the neckline
It is believed that it is better for women to choose chains up to 50 cm, and for men - longer. Still, there are exceptions to every rule, and when purchasing jewelry, you must try it on.
Chain clasp
A chain is only as strong as its weakest link, and in jewelry this is the lock. The most common types of fasteners are:
- Springelny. Not a bad option, but there is one drawback - the ring connecting the clasp to the link is often not sealed, so it can become unbent.
- Carbine. Quite strong and reliable lock. Every few years it requires replacing the spring, which can be done in any jewelry workshop.
- Hourly. Most often used on bracelets, but also found on chains. A pretty good option, but it is important to always monitor how it snaps into place. If it does not close completely, you need to send the product for repair.
- Box. The most durable and reliable lock. The service life is practically unlimited, repairs and maintenance are not required.
The latter type of fastener is often equipped with additional latches that can cling to clothing.
Regardless of how durable the product you purchased, you need to constantly care for it: clean it with special products, change fasteners, and so on. You should not wear jewelry while exercising, swimming or sleeping. Also, you should not use massive pendants on thin and elegant chains. Follow these simple rules and your jewelry will last as long as possible.
16.02.21
Why do women love Singapore weave so much?
The so-called Asian weaving, at first glance, is quite simple, but this is its main trump card. A simple and even somewhat rough design emphasizes the elegance and tenderness of the owner of the jewelry. Chains with pendants look very beautiful, complementing an evening look and a chic dress. They are also suitable for business style clothing for a business woman. Moreover, jewelry with such weaving can be considered universal, since no matter what outfit it is worn with, it will always be a wonderful addition to any look.
A high-quality gold chain made using the Singapore technique looks in the photo and in person like a silver or gold ribbon. She skillfully plays with rays of light, refracting them with the edges of her links, and gives the jewelry a noble shine.
Thanks to this, the chain looks light and weightless on the fragile neck or hand of its owner and makes a strong impression on others. It will not go unnoticed and will indicate the exquisite sense of taste of the owner of the product.
Whatever precious metal the chain or bracelet is made of - gold or silver - the original shape of the flat links looks very impressive. Their perfectly smooth surface and unique shine are ensured by the fact that each element is diamond polished. During this procedure, the links are “trimmed”, resulting in flat edges. And the original twist of the product as a whole gives it an elegant volume. The final result that we receive in its finished form, as a finished decoration for the arm or neck, cannot but attract the attention of others.
There are two types of joints for Singapore weaving - loose and rigid. The first type is used mainly for making women's jewelry, because they look lighter and airier. The second type makes the accessory more massive, and products of this kind should be worn quite carefully - they are not combined with all clothes and are unlikely to fit into a light and airy image.
Chain care
If you wear it every day or put it on “on occasion,” the chain will still get dirty sooner or later. And the more complex and elaborate the weaving, the faster this will happen. Dirt, sweat, and sebum accumulate in the links and between them, and soft gold inevitably gets scratched, no matter how carefully you wear the jewelry. The chain darkens and doesn’t look so impressive.
To make your jewelry last longer, you need to follow a few simple rules when wearing it.
- First of all, compare the size of the pendant and the gold “cord”: a pendant that is too heavy will easily deform the links of the chain. Try to keep the weight of the pendant maximum equal to the weight of the chain itself.
- For the same reason (to avoid deformation or breakage of the product), it is recommended to remove the jewelry at night. This is especially true for thin openwork chains and for cobra-type weaving.
- If possible, do not forget to treat the chain with cleaning agents, since contact with the skin may darken it and lose its original appearance. You can use improvised means. Thus, light stains can be easily removed with toothpaste or even simple soapy water. Experts advise using a soft brush for this, and after placing the product in water, shake the container from time to time. This method will help softened lumps of dirt to free themselves from tightly closed chain links.
If you do not trust popular advice, purchase gold cleaning products at the store and make it a rule to use them regularly.
The skill of jewelers gives us an almost limitless number of chain weaving technologies. The imagination and experience of a specialist, tied together, guarantee that each of us will be able to choose a piece of jewelry to suit our taste, taking into account our appearance, lifestyle and the state of our wallet. We brought to your attention only the most popular types of weaving. But surely right now some inspired jeweler is inventing another knitting, which is in a hurry to complement our Top 20 and become twenty-first on this list.
Python, weaving: features and characteristics
If you love voluminous and expensive gold weaves, then Python is the best choice.
This type of weaving is called differently, for example, “Pharaoh”, “Caprice”, “Italian”. The chain has this name because of the similarity of the pattern on the surface of the skin of the animal of the same name.
Men love gold and silver chains of this kind of weaving, since for a long time they have been an indicator of status, and women prefer bracelets made using the Python technique.
The weaving itself is complex, but at the same time it does not cling to clothing and is convenient to use. It is very durable, can withstand enormous loads, does not tear or twist. Sometimes “Python” is made with diamond processing, due to which it acquires shine. Weaving of this type is universal; it can be worn by young, old and even children; gender also does not matter. “Python” is deservedly considered the most beautiful of all types of chains.
How to choose a lanyard according to the type of wicker
From now on, you can focus on the taste, or good luck, with a handful of tips at hand.
- When choosing a lanyard for a pendant, choose the simplest possible weave. Make sure that the straps easily penetrate through the opening of the pendant. In the core of the basic model, snake cords, braided wire, and diamond are used under the suspension. More colorful models can be worn as an independent embellishment.
- Adjust the proportions between the embellishment and the lace. A too small pendant on a massive lanyard will look inappropriate, and a large pendant on a fine wicker can deform the lanyards and damage the lanyard.
- Pay attention to the brilliance of the jewelry product: the color must be equal, the adhesions are neat and do not interfere with their own color. As the decoration comes from the inserts, they must be firmly fixed in the frame and not clogged with glue. A lanyard made of faceless elements: all lanyards are guilty of easily collapsing, like in fancy wickerwork. You will find such embellishments in our catalogue.
It’s important to know how it’s prepared. The method of preparation also determines the value of decoration, the flexibility of design and, most importantly, the price.
Which weave to choose?
Of course, first of all it is a matter of taste. However, some types of chains are traditionally classified as women's, men's or universal. Thus, the massive and solid “Bismarck” is most often preferred by representatives of the stronger sex, and the graceful “Nonna”, “Singapore”, “Rose”, “Love” and a number of other varieties are considered truly feminine. A typical unisex weaving option is “Anchor”.
For children, the most optimal are densely knitted chains, for example, “Snake”, as well as jewelry cords made of rubber or leather.
Which type of wicker lanyard is more reliable and durable?
- Bismarck is a champion of reliability and durability. Witta technology allows you to create a small volume of wickerwork from spiral-like strips. Jewelers sing that the lance, creations behind this technique, without complaint, endures regular use.
- The wickerwork of the gourmet or figaro , the panels fit tightly one to the other, it is more likely to stretch too much, rather than tear. The whole technique is weaving with a groove in the place of overlaying elements one on one.
- If you are going to wear a lanyard with a pendant or a pendant, you need to choose a type that can show the vagina. Reliable fastening is ensured by such wickerwork as classic cord and spikelet.
- One of the most practical ones is wicker . Most damage, if properly done, can be repaired independently.
The most durable ones are the complete lanyards of automatic and manual weaving. The model is made by stamping and wears out over time, and the straps become damaged.
