Which gold standard is better - 375 or 585? Pros and cons, how they really differ. How to distinguish 375 gold from 585

Gold jewelry has been popular and in demand since ancient times. However, they are not made from pure gold, since without admixtures of other metals (ligatures), gold quickly deforms and wears out. The metric system is used to estimate the pure gold content of an alloy. Many people associate the term “sample” with precious metals, and this is not strange, because a sample provides information about how many grams of pure metal are contained in 1 kilogram of a particular alloy. For example, gold purity 375 means that the alloy contains up to 37.5% pure gold, while the remaining 62.5% comes from an alloy of copper, silver and palladium.

In the post-Soviet countries, the following samples are considered standard samples: 375, 585, 750 and 999, with sample 585 considered the most popular. In turn, 375 gold is a topic of heated debate among ordinary people, since it is believed that products made from such an alloy have nothing in common with the precious metal. Is it so?

What is 375 gold made from?

Due to its strength, malleability and ductility, this precious alloy can be used to make any jewelry.

You can use it to make chains, earrings, bracelets and pendants of amazing beauty and grace, but the most popular are wedding rings of 375 standard. They were in particular demand in the USSR.

This gold is often used to set semi-precious stones such as amethyst, agate, turquoise, and garnet. Also, it is suitable for the manufacture of luxury items that are actively used in everyday life.

These are cases of expensive watches, cigarette cases and lighters, nibs for prestigious writing pens, exquisite cutlery and much more. With proper care, such products can last for decades without breaking or losing their appearance.

Gold of this brand is often used to make decorative elements of furniture and picture frames. In general, the range of applications is very wide.

Where is this alloy used?

In the Soviet Union, the 375 mark of gold was very relevant. Inexpensive jewelry was made from this metal, in particular wedding rings.

Also at that time, gold wristwatches were very popular. This was influenced not only by aesthetic indicators, but also by the quality and ductility of such metal.

After some time, its popularity fell, because this type of gold has no status, and investing in it is not profitable. Therefore, such metal has lost its relevance among buyers.

The Russian jewelry industry produces 4 types of jewelry that meet the required standards. This type of gold is used to make:

• wedding rings;
• chains;
• earrings;
• pendants and bracelets.

It can be found framed with semi-precious stones. Such jewelry is no different in appearance from its expensive counterparts.

To increase the demand for low-grade products, manufacturers began to galvanize the products on top, thereby obtaining 585 samples.

Thanks to this trick, only experienced craftsmen can distinguish products with high quality indicators from low-quality products.

Why does this sample attract buyers?

Jewelry connoisseurs who want to wear precious stones set in gold willingly buy metal of this standard. They are not concerned with the question of what percentage will be in the noble metal into which the precious stone they are interested in will be set. Such jewelry fans are interested in other questions. Will the shine of the metal disappear? How long will a beautiful stone hold on as thin tendrils or is there a risk of losing it?

Thanks to the use of precisely adjusted proportions of impurities, which provide jewelry with increased wear resistance, jewelry owners will not have to be upset by the sight of chips, scratches and surface deformation. Even the thinnest 375 bases, decorated with miniature details, will forever retain their original appearance.

Existing assays and uses of the precious metal

The higher the standard, the heavier and more plastic the decoration. Soft metal is subject to deformation, and its shine disappears due to numerous scratches.

375 has many advantages. It does not change color, does not wear off, does not fade. It is light and does not add extra weight to the jewelry. The noble metal in such an alloy holds stones well. Jewelry is strong and durable.

How is the 375 different from the 585?

The main difference is the gold content of 58.8% and 37.5%. The quality of the second alloy is lower. This is reflected in liquidity, price, and operating conditions.

The 585 keeps an attractive appearance and does not need cleaning. The 375 is cleaned regularly.

Composition and strength

Alloy components provide strength to the substance, since gold itself is too soft. Metal with a purity of 375 has greater hardness and is much less susceptible to deformation and abrasion.

Low-grade 375 gold appears slightly duller than the purer 585 alloy, but this becomes noticeable when compared closely. Depending on the composition, its shade can vary from red to cream and pale yellow.

With a decrease in purity, the metal’s resistance to oxidation also decreases - products made from a low-quality alloy darken, can leave marks on the skin and cause allergic reactions.

Appearance and features of the brand

For alloys of different purities, the Assay Office in Russia uses the same type of mark - a female profile in a kokoshnik. Only the digital value differs in accordance with the composition of the metal to which it is applied.

Difference between different purity grades

In Russia, the metric system for testing alloys is used; abroad you can often find gold products with a karat designation of metal purity.

A precious souvenir with a 9K stamp corresponds to the 375th, 14K – 585th gold standard, respectively.

Differences in GOST standards and quality

The quality of gold alloys is regulated by GOST 6835-2002 and is strictly observed. Metal produced with irregularities must be melted down. According to the regulatory document, precious metals 375 and 585 are three-component compositions of gold, copper and silver, in which ligature occurrences are presented in different proportions depending on the grade.

Varieties that are used for making jewelry.

Price and demand

The cost of gold is higher, 585 is always higher. Today, the price per gram of alloy with the 585 mark is around one and a half thousand rubles. Metal marked 375 is valued at just under a thousand per gram.

If you purchase jewelry in a jewelry store, the price will be influenced by the cost of work on making the jewelry, which depends not on the alloy, but on the complexity of the execution.

The demand for precious metal is dictated by fashion. In Russia, the most popular jewelry is 585-karat; in the United States, some European countries readily use jewelry with a purity of 9 carats (analogous to grade 375); in Italy, they give preference to other, purer varieties. And Arab fashionistas prefer pure gold.

585 gold

An alloy of 14 parts pure gold and 10 parts metals such as silver, copper, zinc or nickel.

In percentage terms, the alloy contains 58.3% pure gold, so you can often see the numbers 583 or 585 on products. But most often, products made from this gold alloy are marked with 14K, 14KT, 14k or similar designations.

Quality

The main difference is the amount of gold in the alloy. The 375 material is of poorer quality because it contains 37.5% gold. In alloy 585 the share of gold is 58.5%, so it is of higher quality.

Strength

The more gold in the metal, the worse its strength. Therefore, 375 gold is stronger than 585 gold. Naturally, this is not as noticeable as we think, but it is true.

Price

The cost also depends on the volume of precious metal in the alloy. Therefore, the larger the sample, the more the jewelry costs. Accordingly, products of 375 standard are less expensive than similar products from more valuable samples. But the difference in the cost of products of 375 and 585 samples is not large, because their price includes the work of jewelers, taxes and markups of intermediaries, etc.

SampleMarket pricePrice in jewelry storesPurchase price

beauty

Both alloys allow jewelers to create unique creations using advanced metalworking techniques.

There is an opinion that jewelry with the 375 mark darkens and becomes dull after some time, unlike products 585, but it must be said that such changes can occur in any jewelry, regardless of the amount of gold in its composition.

Features of low-grade gold

A low-quality product should not be considered bad. Its main advantage is the price. In terms of design and artistic value, 375 gold products may not differ, but due to the price they become affordable.

The copper in the composition gives strength and durability to the alloy, but over time, if not cared for, products made from such gold may tarnish. Because of this, it is not widely used in the jewelry industry. However, the strength that the high copper content gives to the alloy (375 gold is much stronger than 585, 750) makes it indispensable in the production of products where increased wear resistance is necessary. Therefore, it is often used for the manufacture of:

• wedding rings;
• chains;
• bracelets;
• watch cases and bracelets.

It is important to understand that “gold does not wear off” - it is an alloy, not a coating; the precious metal cannot be erased - it’s just that the silver and copper that make up the alloy tend to oxidize in air and form a plaque. Therefore, it is important to care for 375-karat gold items with the same care as high-grade ones.

“They don’t trust” such a hallmark only in Russia - products made from 9-karat gold corresponding to 375 hallmark are popular among Western youth. By the way, the well-known company Parker also uses a 9-carat alloy for the production of its pens, which has increased wear resistance.

In Russia, there is a widespread myth that such jewelry quickly turns black, this blackness cannot be removed, cannot be removed by anything, and it appears due to the small amount of gold in the ligature. Therefore, many are stopped from buying: supposedly low-quality jewelry is bad, but there is not enough money for high-quality jewelry.

You need to take care of it the same way: both for products made of 750 standard and for low-grade ones - then both of them will last a long time.

Advantages and disadvantages of 375 and 585 samples

The noble alloy 375 has an obvious advantage - hardness, which ensures the durability of the product and maintains a presentable appearance. Another advantage is the low cost of jewelry made from it.

The disadvantages include the lower inertness of the 375 alloy with respect to the environment and, as a result, a greater likelihood of dark deposits.

Precious metal 585 is more expensive. Since things related to luxury goods are made from it, this is rather a plus. It has better reflectivity, due to this the products shine brighter and are objectively more beautiful. It has better oxidation resistance, and the likelihood of allergies to such jewelry is low.

The main disadvantage of 585-carat metal is its softness, which leads to damage and scratches on jewelry. Such a product requires additional care and periodic polishing in a jewelry workshop to maintain its beauty.

For what purpose was the sampling system introduced?

Gold in its pure form is characterized by softness and a dull color of an indefinite shade. It is easily bent, deformed, and loses its shine. Jewelry made from such metal will have an unpresentable appearance.

To give it a certain density and shade, various alloys are used in the jewelry industry. Control and regulation of this process is entrusted to government agencies. To determine the amount of precious metal in alloys, a sampling system was introduced.

In Russia there is a law according to which if products produced in industry contain 30% gold, they must be branded. The most famous gold samples are 375.585, 750.958.

These numbers determine the measure of gold included in 1 kg of the alloy. If there is no mark on this product, this may indicate that the item was made illegally. It is impossible to be sure that it is of high quality and purity.

Features

375 gold differs from others mainly in the quantitative content of metal in the alloy. If you compare all the advantages and disadvantages, you will determine the main features by which you can distinguish precious products:

1. High gold content reduces the strength of the finished jewelry. For this reason, we can conclude that the metal has high strength and a long period of use compared to the popular precious alloy.
2. The cost of the jewelry depends on the amount of pure gold content. The higher it is, the more the product costs. This means that such products can be purchased much cheaper.
3. Thanks to the strength and softness that distinguish 375 gold, real masterpieces of beauty are created using various methods and innovative technologies.

There is an opinion that such an alloy tends to darken and tarnish. But it is worth considering: such changes can occur with any products, this does not depend on the percentage of metal in them. Here everything depends on the composition of the ligature, wearing conditions, climate and even the type of cosmetics used.

Recommendations for care and cleaning

1. Jewelry from three hundred and seventy-five is cleaned regularly, for example, in a solution of washing powder. It is not recommended to use soap - it leaves a greasy film on the surface.
2. Polish with a soft cloth.
3. Avoid contact of the product surface with aggressive chemicals - acid, alkali, acetone, solvents. Household cleaning products, cosmetics and perfumes destroy the surface.
4. Do not use abrasive paints or paints or products for decoration.
5. Remove gold before water treatments, baths and saunas.
6. It is not recommended to swim in the sea with jewelry, as the clasps begin to rust.
7. Store jewelry in cloth bags or boxes with soft walls. In cardboard boxes they will turn black.
8. You cannot store jewelry of different samples and compositions together, or gold and silver.

How to store 375 gold?

The best place to store gold items is in special cases, lined with soft fabric on the inside. If this is not the case, you can use a canvas bag.

• Do not store in cardboard boxes, as they contain sulfur and dark spots will quickly appear on the gold.
• It is not advisable to store gold items of different grades and compositions together. This makes them lose their appearance.
• You cannot keep gold together with silver and jewelry.
• Storage near heating devices, as well as in places exposed to direct sunlight, is contraindicated. Gold loves dryness and darkness.
• It would also be a good idea to use a reliable safe for storage.

How to clean a gold ring at home

Cleaning gold items (of any standard) at home is simple:

• For light soiling, a warm solution of washing powder is sufficient. Keep the products in it for 10 minutes, then rinse well with running water.
• 10 drops of ammonia per glass of warm water - if the contamination is severe.
• Stains from a gold item are removed with a special paste; if they are ingrained, hold them in a concentrated ammonia solution - it will not dissolve the precious metal, but will remove the oxidation of copper and silver.

Proper care of gold jewelry

The most important rule is to clean your jewelry regularly. It doesn’t matter what precious metal they are made of, and even more so, what grade they are made of - over time, a dirty coating appears on all of them. Body sweat, dust and environmental pollution settle on your rings, which is why they lose their former attractiveness and become dull.

Be sure to remove jewelry from your hands if you work with alkaline or acidic compounds. They are components of many cleaning products and solvents and have a negative effect on gold, even to the point of damaging the structure of the alloy.

Paints, varnishes, and substances with abrasive properties can also harm your jewelry. Take them off before going to the bathhouse or sauna. Exposure to high temperatures also has a negative effect on gold alloys.

Do not store gold jewelry in cardboard boxes - the sulfur contained in it causes the items to turn black.

As can be seen from the above, it is not the sample that is to blame for the fact that the products have lost their appearance, but incorrect wearing and irregular cleaning.

Why does gold turn black?

The composition of the alloy affects the appearance of the product. The less precious metal, the higher the chance that over time the jewelry will become covered with a dark coating and leave marks on the skin. Darkening occurs as a reaction to contact with cosmetics and cleaning products. Another reason is increased sweating of the owner.

Why can gold jewelry make your fingers dark?

1. These are the characteristics of the impurities contained in the alloy.
2. Reaction of gold to components of decorative cosmetics, detergents and cleaning products, etc.
3. Increased sweating, which causes the skin to release nitrogen compounds. These react with the copper and cause black ring marks to appear.

Appearance of gold streaks

The presence of a large number of impurities in 375 gold makes products made from it susceptible to chemical reactions when exposed to an aggressive environment. Acids, alkalis, high humidity - these are just the main factors affecting the condition of the product, its appearance and the possibility of darkening.

When interacting with a harmful environment, gold begins to oxidize and leaves black marks when it comes into contact with the skin. As a rule, they take the form of stripes.

How to care for gold jewelry

Caring for gold jewelry consists mainly of proper and timely cleaning.

The fact is that all gold jewelry, without exception, becomes covered with a dirty coating over time. Such contamination has an extremely negative effect on the appearance and attractiveness of the specimen, which fades over time.

It is important to know the basic rules for caring for gold jewelry and apply them correctly.

1. Under no circumstances should yellow precious metal be allowed to come into direct contact with any alkalis or acids, since the latter have a negative effect on the precious metal. Such substances are included in various detergents, cleaners, washing powders, solvents, nail polish removers, etc.
2. Contact of gold jewelry with paints and varnishes and abrasives is also unacceptable.
3. Before performing bath procedures, gold jewelry must be removed.
4. Gold jewelry cannot be stored in cardboard boxes, since cardboard is a substance that necessarily contains sulfur. It leads to blackening of jewelry.
5. Clean your jewelry regularly.

The features of cleaning jewelry made of 375 gold are no different from those used in the case of gold products of higher standards.

What to choose: 375 or 585 gold

• It is impossible to say for sure which type of gold alloy is better. When choosing, there are many factors to consider, as well as individual preferences. If you want everyday jewelry that you will wear all the time, then it is better to opt for a product made from 375 gold - it is harder and more scratch-resistant. A ring made of 585 gold will wear out faster and become scratched if worn constantly. An additional advantage is the lower price of products made from 375 gold alloy.
• As noted above, diamond jewelry is typically made from at least 585 gold alloy.
• If you are allergic to nickel, it is best to avoid jewelry made from 375 gold and opt for jewelry made from 585 gold or a higher purity alloy.
• As for appearance, it’s up to you to decide which of these types of gold looks more attractive, and whether it’s worth paying extra for a higher standard.

Tips for choosing gold jewelry

When purchasing gold items made from low-grade precious metals, you must use the same rules as when choosing more expensive alloys. The color of the product, its design and appearance are the key parameters of jewelry. And, of course, do not forget to check the presence of markings on the product, which will confirm the quality of the sample.

Sources

• https://zaimzoloto.ru/articles/375-proba-zolota/
• https://GoldMiddle.ru/vse-ukrasheniya/zoloto-375-proby-kachestvo.html
• https://golden-inform.ru/proby/375-zolota/
• https://ZolotoMan.ru/proby/zoloto-375-proby.html
• https://TokyoStreet.ru/dragocennye-kamni/zoloto-375-i-585-otlichie.html
• https://zolotoe-runo-sl.ru/proba/375-zolota.html
• https://goldomania.ru/articles/375_assay_gold.html
• https://obninsk-torg.ru/tehniki/zoloto-375-proby-kachestvo-otzyvy.html
• https://vplate.ru/zoloto/vse-o-375-probe/
• https://art-posh.ru/ukrasheniya/zoloto-375-proby-kachestvo-otzyvy.html
• https://zhazhdazolota.ru/proby/375

How to choose jewelry

It is recommended to make purchases in trusted jewelry stores. Check the surface of the product and the certificate.

In Turkey, China, Egypt, it is recommended to buy gold with caution. A hallmark for jewelry in these countries is not necessary, and cheap alloys are sold under the guise of 375.

In conclusion, we note that the 375th is unpopular in Russia; the 585th is preferred to it. In the USSR, three hundred and seventy-five were made into items for everyday wear - watch bracelets, wedding rings, earrings.

The test is popular in the USA and Europe and is used by youth jewelry brands.

The price for 375 depends on the market value and instructions from the Central Bank of Russia. Pawnshops buy the alloy from 500 rubles per gram. A product in poor condition will cost less.

Among the disadvantages of the 375 are:

• loss of attractiveness:
• the need for regular cleaning;
• allergies and black spots on the skin;
• low liquidity.

Advantages:

• price;
• wear resistance;
• strength;
• the author's work does not differ in appearance from the 585th.

It is not recommended to purchase 375 in Egypt and Turkey, where they sell cheap alloy for a high price.

Store jewelry in bags or boxes with soft walls in a cool, dark place. Clean regularly with special products or ammonia. Avoid contact of the surface of the product with sweat, cosmetics, and cleaning products. Dangerous are acid, alkali, acetone, solvents, and sea water.

375 gold is contraindicated for those who are allergic to nickel

This is the biggest drawback of 375 gold alloy - the nickel in its composition can cause an allergic reaction.

Because the percentage of nickel in this gold alloy is higher (compared to 585 and higher alloys), products made from it are more likely to cause skin irritation and other allergy symptoms.

Jewelry made of 585 gold practically does not cause allergic reactions, and yet people prone to allergies are recommended to test the product first.

Cost of products

Today, 375 gold, weighing 1 gram, costs 1,000 rubles.

If palladium, which is considered precious and its value is not inferior to gold, was used as an impurity, such products will be highly expensive. By using an alloy with the addition of copper or silver, you can significantly reduce prices.