Armored chain weaving: features and advantages

Armored chain weaving is probably the most popular these days. In this way, not only neck chains are woven, but also bracelets (including for watches), earrings, elements of brooches and hairpins.

Costume jewelry made using this technique is widespread, but the armor-like weaving of a gold chain still serves as an indicator of the good taste and well-being of the owner. These chains look great in silver, either in combination with pendants or in proud, shining isolation.

Armor weaving of chains

This type of weaving is one of the oldest. Back in the Middle Ages, it was this technology that was used to make protective metal clothing for soldiers. Nowadays, armor weaving is one of the most common and relevant, especially among men. This chain looks unusual because its links lie in the same plane. The tight fit to the skin ensures wearing comfort and does not rub it. This option is ideal for those who experience redness or discomfort with other types of weaving. These chains look great over clothes. Another advantage of armor weaving is its strength. Even a thin silver chain does not get tangled or bent. Special polishing and diamond cutting of the links gives the product a bright shine. Silver chains with armor weave are most often made using specialized equipment.

Durable weaves

Spike , durable and beautiful weaving:

The ear can also look like this:

There are also a large number of chains in which the links are not woven, but are made by casting. After pouring, they are connected by rings into one chain. Here is an example of such a chain:

What does armor weaving look like?

Jewelers created the armored connection of links in a chain relatively recently. This is a type of anchor weaving, but slightly modified. The difference is that with the same connection principle, each link is slightly rotated in such a way that it is not perpendicular to the adjacent one, but is in the same plane with it.

This effect is obtained by bending each link. The compound got its name from the word “shell”. In ancient times, when making shells, parts were connected in one plane so as not to injure the body. In addition, such a combination of several elements is often found in the animal world.

Such chains are loved by women who prefer playing with contrasts - a monolithic armored chain will well emphasize the grace and fragility of its owner.

The peculiarity of chains made in armored joints is that when finely worked, they look like a metal strip.

Jewelers distinguish several types of armor weaving:

1. 
   Nonna has nothing in common with a woman's name. This name comes from an Italian expression that means "grandmother's weaving." All edges shine in the sun thanks to the diamond edges. Nonna is considered one of the most elegant varieties of armored compounds.

2. The links made in the shape of a rhombus gave the name to the type of chains of the same name. Double and triple armor weaving, which is popular among consumers, is most often made with diamond-shaped edges.
3. The name Figaro reflects the changeability of the name. In this weaving, links of different sizes and shapes alternate. The most common ratios are 1:1 and 1:5. This type of armored chains was chosen by the Cartier jewelry house. Frequent use of Figaro weaving began to bear the name Cartier.

4. 
   Hearts as jewelry links gave the Love technique its name.

5. The similarity of paper clips with twisted links became the basis for the name Skrepka. Some prefer to see these links as similar to a snail. In any case, these are 2 names for the same type of armor weaving.
6. If the name Snake is associated with a snake, it will be due to the similarity of the finished product to the body of a snake. Very small links that look like a single whole give the impression that there is a small gold (silver) snake on the body. This is a delicate and delicate decoration. Many people prefer to call snake weaving not a chain, but a cord.
7. Beautiful, one might even say ornate curls, similar to a rose, gave the name to the type of armored compound of the same name.

8. 
   Twisted chains – Singapore and Corda are especially popular among women. Light, openwork, shiny and at the same time durable, they have earned recognition from many fans of beautiful and high-quality jewelry.

Simple weaving

Anchor . Let's start with the simplest type of chain weaving . With this type of weaving, one link is in a perpendicular plane to the other link. These links come in round and elongated shapes. Here is an example of an anchor weave chain with elongated links:

Double anchor chain:

Anchor rollo , and this weaving is characterized by the round shape of the links.

This is an anchor weave made of flat links:

Sea chain . Another interesting type of anchor chains. It looks like a real ship's anchor chain and its links have jumpers in the middle. Anchor chains are durable and unpretentious. They are easy to clean since they do not have complex woven links. When purchasing such a chain, you need to pay attention to the lock; when you look at it, you should have confidence in its reliability.

Paper clip or bird's eye . Interesting and beautiful weaving, also durable and practical. Hollow chains with this type of weaving are often found. I am always against blown or hollow products, but this type of chain, even in the blown version, lasts for quite a long time, although we must not forget about care when wearing it, since deformation of the metal is possible:

Cartier . The following type of chains is named after the legendary brand:

Shell or Tape weaving . Simple classical chains are characterized by the links being in the same plane. Here is an example of a classic weave with a diamond edge:

Rhombo single weave . The next type of weaving is very durable and popular, especially among the male population. Here is an example of a faceted diamond:

Double diamond:

Triple diamond:

Nonna . Similar in weaving to rhombus, they are also very reliable, but more feminine:

Bismarck (Cardinal) . Another group of chains that are popular, especially in Russia (the favorite chains of brothers), has a huge number of varieties:

Double Bismarck.

And this weaving is called triple bismarck.

Bismarck weaving with balls.

Abinata is also a type of Bismarck weave.

Rose is a voluminous and very beautiful type of chain weaving :

Italian (python) , the weaving is very beautiful and durable connection of precious metal links:

Turtle . The next beautiful option for chains and bracelets, however, again based on my practice, I can say the following: the chain itself is strong, but these plates, reminiscent of a tortoise shell, very often cling to clothing, spoil its appearance, and even worse, they come off and will have to take it to the workshop and pay money for repairs.

If you nevertheless decide to buy this type of weaving, then I advise you not to buy a thin or light product with such a pattern, buy something heavier and, accordingly, stronger, so that you do not have to run around jewelry workshops in search of high-quality repairs.

Technological features of weaving

There are several weaving methods that allow you to create unique jewelry:

• Machine knitting is performed on modern equipment and is based on process automation. The latest technology makes it possible to weave jewelry whose links are less than a millimeter thick.

• Handwork is used in the manufacture of types of weaving that cannot be done on a machine. The minimum weight of handmade chains is from 6 grams. The impeccable quality of workmanship is determined by the degree of professionalism of the chain jeweler. The painstaking weaving of jewelry chains consists of winding gold or silver wire around a workpiece and cutting it into rings of the same size. The links are compressed using pliers. The connector of each link is soldered. Labor-intensive work is highly valued.
• The stamped chain is assembled from blanks. The links are threaded into one another without soldering. The finished decoration may become deformed, twisted and less durable.

Most popular chains

This weaving was invented for heavy chains weighing more than 100 grams, but it turned out to be too beautiful and practical to remain aside. So this method began to be used for the production of thin light chains. It can be made either manually or using machinery. By the way, Bismarck weaving is especially popular in Russia.

This weaving is often called “Byzantine” and “Royal” - and all options are correct. The ornate interweaving of rings makes it one of the most beautiful and feminine weaves. Of course, this also affects the strength - such a chain will withstand heavy pendants.

Fox tail chain weaving is often equated to Byzantine chain weaving. But even at first glance, the difference is striking. “Fox tail” - weaving is more smooth and dense. Its links fit into a strong chain like a puzzle. A thick chain of this type of weaving cannot be broken by hand.

You can guess its name from the appearance of the chain. Weaving differs sharply from others in the fastening of the links - in a “rope” they are tightly connected to each other and twisted with a rope. This feature makes the chain strong and allows you to wear heavy pendants and crosses. At the same time, it turns out to be so self-sufficient and elegant that it can be worn without additional pendants.

The exceptionally feminine Rose or Courage weave is impressive. Its details in the form of buds are made not of simple links, but of spiral ones. Due to this design, the chain looks voluminous and airy, but in fact has good strength.

“Caprice” or “Python” is another type of durable weaving. Most often it is done manually. It is one of the few chains that can be worn independently without additional accessories. Beautiful, laconic, airy.

Types of chain weaving

When choosing jewelry, the main criterion is the weaving of chains made of gold and silver. There are only three basic weaving technologies: anchor, shell and bismarck. All the rest are fantasy. The artistic configurations of each are distinguished by simple or intricate knitting of links and have given life to many variations:

• Anchor knitting attracts with its uncomplicated simplicity. Externally, the weaving of the links resembles an anchor chain. The classic version assumes an oval shape of the links. If the links are round, then this is “Rollo” or “Chopard”, after the name of the fashion house Chopard, which ensured the popularity of the original type of knitting. The technology of weaving with links of two rings is called “Double Anchor”.

• Armor weaving impresses with the decorative shine of its polished edges. It is distinguished by chain links that are knitted not perpendicularly, but in a single plane. The name is explained by its resemblance to a chain mail shell. There are single, double and triple weaving - it all depends on the number of rings being fastened. Knitting with diamond-shaped elements is called “Rhombus”. The most elegant armor weaving “Nonna”. The double-sided diamond cut gives it a spectacular shine.

• “Bismarck” is one of the most complex weavings and is most often accompanied by manual work. Knitting is formed by elements consisting of several rings. Double, triple or quadruple weave technology guarantees increased strength.

• Fantasy weaving combines different types of designs in different proportions. Design changes instantly respond to new jewelry trends.

Fantasy weaving

Here is an example of a chain with a very rare weave, which belongs to the category of fancy weaves:

And this is the next version of fantasy weaving; the very strong structure of the chain guarantees its durability. A chain of silver rings of the same diameter is assembled:

Another rare type of chain weaving , which in my opinion will always be rare because of its appearance:

Brook . Next view:

Fantasy chains. The most common types:

Royal (Byzantine):

Snail (Lumakina):

Features of armor weaving

The technology is similar to the anchor method. In both situations, the links must be connected in series with each other, but for armored chains, each element is located at the same level. The specific appearance is achieved by craftsmen by twisting individual rings. At the last stage, the product must be sanded. This is done to add shine. Weaving can be done either by machine or by hand. The cost of the latter jewelry is higher, because the finished single chains are unique.

Manufacturing technique

The principle of armor weaving is similar to anchor weaving. In both cases, the links are sequentially connected to each other, only in the anchor one - the links are located perpendicular to each other, and in the armored one - all the elements are as if in the same plane, reminiscent of a shell. This appearance is achieved due to the fact that the individual rings are slightly twisted and resemble an unfinished figure eight. At the last stage, the chain is polished to give it greater shine.

Jewelry stores offer models of jewelry made on a machine or by hand. The latter are much more expensive, but such a chain is unique.

Where to begin

Before you buy a chain, you should decide on some details that directly affect the price of the product and its appearance. First, you need to decide what metal your jewelry will be made of, then choose the knitting method, filling the links, and at the very end decide on the type of weaving and style.

Typically, jewelry is made from three metals: gold, silver and platinum. Much will depend on the purity, purity and type of metal when determining the price. Each metal has several sample options, indicating its purity, as well as the presence of other impurities in the alloy.

Technological breakthroughs have made their work much easier for many professions; innovations have also affected the jewelry market. If previously all products were made by hand, now machines have come to the aid of craftsmen, which do their job no worse than their own, but still they do not reach the strength of hand weaving. That is why most jewelers still try to adhere to the traditional way of doing their work, since it is the proven method that ensures the high quality of their work and allows each link to be more reliably secured.

There are three methods of chain knitting: stamping, machine knitting and hand knitting.

Hand knitting is the most complex, expensive and traditional, but at the same time the strongest and most durable. This method requires enormous patience, perseverance, as well as jewelry talent. To begin with, the metal wire is stretched onto a spiral machine, with the help of which the links of the desired diameter and size are cut, and then the chain jeweler manually connects each link in a certain order to obtain the desired pattern. Then the links are soldered and, if the jewelry must be flat, the chain is passed through jewelry rollers.

Machine knitting is performed by special equipment designed for knitting jewelry. When stamping, ready-made links are used, but they are not soldered, but simply threaded into one another. Unfortunately, such products do not have high strength and are most often subject to deformation.

Another choice that buyers face is the type of wire. Chains are made from two types of metal wire: hollow or solid. Hollow products are only visually bloated and massive; in fact, they are empty from the inside, and in terms of weight, these products, as a rule, are not heavy at all. But the price of such jewelry is much lower.

Solid chains are more expensive and heavier, but at the same time stronger and more beautiful than hollow ones. These pieces of jewelry are much easier to care for, and if a link becomes deformed, it is easier to repair. If a solid link breaks, then the craftsman only needs to reconnect and fuse it, but if a hollow link breaks, repairs are excluded. It is much easier to completely replace a broken hollow link or remove it altogether than to repair it.

Varieties of weaving gold chains, their names and photos

In this article we will talk about the existing types of weaving chains and bracelets made of precious metals. From my jewelry practice, it became clear to me that this type of jewelry is wildly popular and in high demand, especially in the summer months, when it is warm outside and people expose their arms and neck. It’s very beautiful when a beautiful gold chain or bracelet sparkles on them.

Gold chains and bracelets appeared in ancient times. They were worn on the legs and arms, and also around the neck. In ancient times, the golden chain was a symbol of power, prosperity, and might.

In modern times, a gold chain can also be a symbol of wealth and emphasize the unique style of its owner. Although they are expensive, rarely does anyone deny themselves the pleasure of owning at least one piece of jewelry made of precious metal.

The constant desire for beauty pushes a person to spend a lot of money on gold jewelry. of varieties of weaving gold chains and bracelets. Their diversity gives any person the opportunity to choose the option that suits them and satisfy their vanity.

Previously, the production of gold chains was exclusively handmade. Noble metals were melted, wire was drawn from them, and then twisted into rings of various shapes. Afterwards, the finished links were connected to each other, soldered and rolled. And only after all these processes was the finished product processed and polished.

Modern gold chains are also made by hand, but some types of chain weaving are made on special machines. Machine manufacturing makes it possible to diversify the so-called pattern of chains, as well as create jewelry that is lighter in weight.

Of course, products made by human hands are more valuable, but their price is also correspondingly higher, but a gold chain or bracelet made on industrial machines becomes an affordable piece of jewelry, since their price is lower.

Different types of weaving are designed not only for different tastes, but also for different material capabilities of people. Some chains, thin and seemingly airy, are for lovers of fine jewelry. Those who like massive jewelry also have plenty to choose from. Similar weaving can be seen on bracelets, since a bracelet is the same chain, only shorter in length.

A chain is one of the most common jewelry. It is worn by both men and women, and even children. It can be either an independent decoration or a necessary addition to a pendant. Humanity has created a great many varieties of chains and, since there is no single classification, there is therefore confusion and discrepancies in terminology.

But I will try to convey to you the information that I was able to obtain that is reliable.

Advantages

Whatever the technique for making an armored chain, the product retains its advantages.

• All decorations are durable. They are perfect for those who plan to wear them with a pendant.
• Smooth links do not cling to clothing and do not cause discomfort to the skin.
• Weaving is suitable for both men's and women's jewelry. It all depends on the size of the links. It is believed that “shells” are more typical for the stronger half of humanity. But if the elements are small, then they make an elegant feminine decoration. In this case, the strength of the chain is not lost.

• For greater shine, armored chains are decorated with a diamond cut. Then they play beautifully in the light and add solidity to their wearer. Jewelry made of red gold will emphasize your high status.
• Due to the fact that armored chains are very strong, they are difficult to deform. Such products can even be found in 999 gold. In general, this alloy is impractical for accessories, since pure gold is quite soft. But jewelers use such gold to create armored chains, vouching for their durability.

Armor weaving chains made of silver and gold: advantages

The armored style has a large number of advantageous features, thanks to which it has gained popularity. Let's look at the main ones:

1. high level of strength. A special type of connection of parts gives the design reliability and guarantees a long service life;
2. versatility. The armored weaving of a gold chain is perfect for both representatives of the strong and weak half of humanity;
3. extensive selection. Since there are many subtypes, the client can choose a unique model from a wide range of jewelry.

Of course, the stylish design of the structures is also an advantage. In this variation of weaving it is more pronounced than in alternative types, therefore it can easily emphasize any outfit and the advantages of a person’s appearance.

Solid or hollow: what's the difference?

There are significant differences between solid and hollow shell chains. The first option is performed on factory machines and connected with an element made of whole wire. Features of the one-piece version:

• increased strength;
• greater weight of gold;
• high price.

Machine chains may have additional weaves. It is allowed to use pendants with an optimal weight of 1/3 of the weight of the chain. In most jewelry stores, full-length jewelry predominates.

Hollow shell chains are made by hand. They rarely tear (they can withstand up to 16 kg). Forced rupture is excluded. During the manufacturing process, specialists deliberately leave a weak point - a strong jerk leads to the extension of the carbine ring. This is done to minimize the risks associated with neck injury after severe strain.

In practice, hand-woven chains are much more expensive than their machine-made counterparts. The price is justified by the long time of use and quality characteristics of the product.

Advantages and disadvantages

There are many factors that can sway the choice in favor of a chain of armored weaving. The main ones are:

• Wide compatibility. Classic armored weaving does not impose any special requirements on the wearer - it can be combined with any city bow. For special occasions, it is better to choose more massive or openwork options, depending on the image.
• Can be worn with a pendant. Laconic models go well with pendants, changing which you can add special zest to your current outfits.
• Maintainability. The simpler the weave, the easier it is to adjust it to length or repair it if it breaks.
• Easy to care for. Cleaning such a chain at home is much easier than, for example, an intricate Byzantium.
• Strength. A high-quality chain will serve more than one generation of owners.

And there are simply no downsides to armor weaving, especially if it was touched by the hand of a real Master!

08.03.21

Armor weaving of silver chains

A silver chain is one of the most popular accessories worn by both women and men of any age. This piece of jewelry emphasizes style and individuality and fits perfectly into any wardrobe. In addition, silver always looks light and fresh, so it is suitable for daily wear, unlike some gold products. This is also an excellent option for an inexpensive gift, suitable for everyone, regardless of gender, age and social status. Nowadays, jewelers create a variety of chain models that differ in weight, thickness, design and type of weaving.

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Saturday, April 04, 2015 09:57 + in the Otrada

all posts by GARIBALDI BISMARCK Both women's and men's weaving. The most popular of the manual ones. Very durable and beautiful. It has a great many other names - Cardinal, Kaiser, Armenian Bismarck, Springel, etc. Bismarck has been the most popular weaving for several centuries. By the way, at the beginning of the last century this weaving was considered truly feminine. It was fashionable to wear a very long thin gold chain around the neck, or as a decorative belt. And in the nineties, Bismarck had already become the most popular men's weaving in Russia. A voluminous gold chain weighing 100-150 grams showed the high status of its owner in a “raspberry” jacket. Bismarck weaving is universal. A gold chain or bracelet can serve as a wonderful gift for both women and men. Bismarck chains up to 50 centimeters long are considered women's. They are ideal for everyday and office wear, as well as for a voluminous or weighty pendant or body icon. Bismarck chains from 50 centimeters and weighing over 8 grams will look decent on a man’s neck. Since the weave is one of the most durable, it can be worn without taking it off. Most often, Bismarcks are ordered from us for heavy, beautiful crosses and exclusive body amulets. GARIBALDI PYTHON Both women's and men's weaving. Python is the “younger brother” of Bismarck. Very similar in appearance, but has a more modern design. Hand-weaving Python also has a large number of other names - Caprice, Italian, Pharaoh, American and Venetian. Although this chain with a complex pattern was originally considered masculine, it has now become incredibly popular among women, especially with a diamond cut. It is unusual, self-sufficient and in a short version - up to 50 cm is ideal for a business suit, and diamond processing allows it to shimmer playfully in the light. ARMORS Ideal for a children's chain. Weaving for both men and women. Armored gold chains are the most frequently purchased. They have a classic design, do not attract too much attention and are suitable for almost all types of pendants. Armored weaving is rightfully considered the strongest weave, it is not afraid of twisting, it can easily be bent at any angle, it does not get tangled, and breaks, as a rule, from a very sharp and strong jerk. Due to its popularity, it has many length and weight options, so for a lover of the classics there is no better one. Gold armored chains are especially often purchased for crosses and body icons. In addition to the classic armor weave, Double Armor with diamond cut and Armor Parallel also appeared. ARMORS DOUBLE ARMORS PARALLEL In the armored double links are intertwined through one and create the impression of “infinity”. And in Pantsirny Parallel, two parallel round links are intertwined at once. In general, there are a lot of armored weaves. You can often find elongated armored chains on sale. They are very light and inexpensive. And there are also more expensive and sophisticated ones - ribbons. Very graceful, neat, gently wrapping around the neck, but rather fragile. WOMEN'S CHAINS BISMARCK GLAMOR Women's chain Bismarck (Bismarck with balls) is an excellent option for ladies with a playful, but at the same time pragmatic character. Strong, reliable weaving is decorated with balls that play in the light. A wonderful option for wearing as a wide women's bracelet. On the neck it is worn in a shortened version up to 50 cm as a self-sufficient decoration that does not require additions in the form of pendants and pendants. Bimark glamorous looks great in any gold color. Can be worn under a cocktail dress or a fitted suit with a skirt. BISMARCK ANCHOR Women's flat automatic weaving. It is made from anchor, woven in several rows - two-, three- and four-row. A wide, but at the same time quite light women's gold chain with a magnificent noble shine. As a rule, it is purchased with a length of 45-50 cm and is worn as a classic necklace. A wide Bismarck anchor bracelet will look great on any woman's hand. FOX TAIL (ROMAN, ROYAL) Fox Tail weaving is rightfully considered the most luxurious of all hand-made ones; it is not without reason that it is also called “Royal”! A beautiful, durable, round gold Fox Tail chain with a complex pattern will become the most favorite decoration for a lady of any age and any size. A chain of this weave is worn from 40 to 50 cm long as an exquisite neck decoration. Fox Tail made of yellow gold is more suitable for a young, light girl, and the traditional red (pink) color of gold will be preferred by older women. FOX TAIL SEMI-CIRCULAR LOVE and HEART Love and Heart are sophisticated women's automatic weavings. They are often confused, so we have combined them so that you can notice the difference. Both chains consist of smooth, rounded loops that follow the shape of a heart. LOVE HEART Gold chains of Love weaving are an ideal gift option for a young girl. Chains of these weaves are most often used to wear religious attributes on the body, as well as elegant pendants for both evening and everyday wear. A chain with hearts will be a wonderful gift for your loved one. And thanks to the lightness of these decorations, it is possible to wear several products, such as Snails or Serpentine, intertwined with each other... CHOPARD NONNA The “Nona” weave is famous for its reliability and elegance. This decoration is especially shiny thanks to the diamond edge applied on both sides. In terms of reliability, it is reminiscent of men's diamond weaving, but more feminine. When choosing and purchasing gold chains and bracelets, an important role is played not only by the beauty of the product, its fineness, but also by the weaving, which ensures the durability of the jewelry. “Nonna” weaving is one of those that is distinguished by its reliability and durability. The chain, which is based on automatic weaving “Nonna”, looks noble, shining dazzlingly in the rays of the sun or reflecting the lights of the evening light. Even with prolonged wear, such chains do not fray or break; the “Nonna” weave firmly holds the double links of the jewelry together. Weaving creates a special flexibility of the jewelry, allowing it to easily take any shape and not get tangled in the hair. This chain will easily fit the style of any pendant, of any size, perfectly matching its shape, and it can also be used as an independent accessory. ROSE ROSE SQUARE CREEK SINGAPORE EYE OF THE PANTHER Another name is Bird's Eye. A decorative women's gold chain of automatic weaving, which is a self-sufficient neck decoration. EAR BRAIDS SERPENTINE SNAIL LOAD FACETED LOAD ANCHOR CRACKED ANCHOR CORDO MEN'S CHAINS BISMARCK ARABIC (ARAB) FOX TAIL SQUARE (MEN'S ROYAL) RHOMBUS Rhombus or Rhombo - a very similar weaving to armored . The only difference is in the shape of the links: the armored one is round, the Rhombus one corresponds to the name. Due to the shape of the links, it is more suitable as a men's neck ornament. But there is no obvious gradation - male/female. Classic, durable and reliable. DOUBLE RHOMBUS In a double or triple Rhombus, the links are intertwined through one. Double diamond is the most suitable weave for a men's wrist bracelet. MOSCOW BIT FIGARO CLIP (CARTIER) ] FIGARO One long - one short One long - 2 short One long - 3 short One long - five short ANCHOR Gold chain with anchor weaving consists of links of a round (Classical) or oval (Rolled) shape, connecting perpendicular. Anchor chains are a traditional decoration that, depending on the model and color of gold, will suit both a business suit and a bright outfit. If you need a universal decoration, choose a chain with small links. To complement an outstanding image, a model with large ones is more suitable. An anchor chain made of white gold with a diamond cut (Brill) will ideally complement jewelry with a scattering of diamonds. Anchor 1+1 Anchor 1+2 ANCHOR DOUBLE ANCHOR ROLLED Anchor rolled due to the shape of the links is more popular among weaves for men's chains. More often than others, people want to buy such chains for religious attributes, including very voluminous and heavy ones.

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